This restaurant closed in April 2022. Thanks for the memories!
Nova Scotian chain has finally arrived in Toronto
For some reason, donairs have had a hard time surviving in Toronto. Places that had good donairs, like Fuzz Box and Hopgood’s Foodliner, only lasted for a few years. Here’s hoping that Jessy’s Pizza will have a more successful run.
Jessy’s Pizza is a chain from Nova Scotia that opened 2 years ago here, marking its first outlet outside Atlantic Canada. Sure, it sells pizzas but its main draw are donairs. They are the most authentic I have tried here.
Canada’s own shawarma
Sorry Ottawa, Halifax deserves the title of shawarma king even though it doesn’t have as many shawarma restaurants. While Ottawa’s version is mostly Lebanese, Halifax’s variation is a weird Canadian invention. The donair looks like a Greek gyro pita sandwich. The twist is in the sweet donair sauce made from condensed milk. Also, a classic donair is topped with diced tomatoes and onions. Nothing more. The meat used for grilling is finely minced and packed into thin strips. This results in a mystery meat texture—great if you like Spam.
Only a few regions outside of the Middle East have their own take on rotating meat slices on a spit. Mexico has al pastor, Greece has gyros, Turkey has döner kebabs, and the Middle East has shawarmas. Canada’s very own donair is celebrated on a dedicated website where you can find out where to get it in the country. It hasn’t been updated in a while though.
The food
I was surprised by how reasonable the prices and portions were. A small donair was satisfying for lunch and cost only $7.90. This was a classic donair: no frills and lots of donair sauce. It was bursting with meat.
Ah, the donair meat. It’s chewy but strangely delicious in a fast food way. The meat was much finer in texture than shawarma or döner. The donair sauce brought everything together. A touch of sweetness from condensed milk, sharpness from garlic, and brightness from vinegar. The diced tomatoes and onions fulfilled their supporting role and melded in the background, providing occasional crunch. This is the best donair in the region, lack of competitors notwithstanding.
The other Nova Scotian specialty offered by Jessy’s Pizza are garlic fingers. This is essentially a pizza with garlic butter instead of tomato sauce. And sliced into rectangular strips. It’s probably the only place that serves this in Toronto.
The place
When I visited in the winter, the interior was sad. It was clear that their business was focused on takeout and delivery. There were a few tables and chairs strewn about. It looked like someone’s basement. Some mementos of Nova Scotia adorned the walls.
I have no problem with their dismal interior as long as they keep cooking excellent donairs. I’d rather they funnel their profits to a healthy balance sheet than creating yet another hipster restaurant.
Verdict
A true taste of Nova Scotian donairs. Great prices and portions. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Jessy’s Pizza
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Donair
- Prices
- Donair (small): $7.90 ($6.99 excluding tax)
Garlic fingers (small): $10.16 ($8.99 excluding tax) - Address
- 2200 Dundas Street West
- Hours
- Monday to Wednesday 1100h – 2300h
Thursday 1100h – 0100h
Friday to Saturday 1100h – 0200h
Sunday 1200h – 2400h - Date of visit
- November 2019