The triple-layered bars of Nanaimo

Where to get the best Nanaimo bars in their place of origin

Nanaimo is a seaside town that’s used mainly as a transit point to catch a ferry. However, it has an outsized claim to fame on the Canadian culinary landscape–Nanaimo bars. They are widely found across Canada, though more common in the Western provinces. No one is sure who created this dessert but it emerged from Nanaimo in the 1950s. And yes, locals call them Nanaimo bars too, even in Nanaimo.

What makes a good Nanaimo bar

Fundamentally, a Nanaimo bar is a no-bake cake with 3 layers:

1. Brownie-like base with desiccated coconut. The main ingredient is crushed Graham crackers.
2. Custard. Traditionally vanilla-flavoured.
3. Chocolate fudge.

This confection is very easy to make at home. You can create different flavours of custard and add all sorts of ingredients like nuts to the base. And you can customize the proportion of the different layers.

Speaking of which, there isn’t an exact rule of how thick the different layers should be. The top layer should be thin and chilled so that it cracks when biting into it. The custard shouldn’t be much thicker than the base because it’s literally powdered sugar and butter. Too much and it’s sickly.

Good Nanaimo bars use high-quality chocolate and have precise cuts and layers. Uneven layers and smudging while cutting are signs of a home baker that’s not too concerned about looks. More importantly, there should be textural contrast between layers. All three layers are sweet and it’s easy to end up with a cloying sugar cube.

These days, Nanaimo bakeries have non-traditional flavours that range from cookies and cream to strawberry to peanut butter. For a fair comparison, I stuck with the traditional version. Since there are around 10 places to choose from in Nanaimo, I prioritize those that specialize in the bars or are skilled in sweet pastries.

Bocca Cafe

Bocca is situated in the old town, away from the touristy waterfront.

All their Nanaimo bars are gluten-free and they had 6 flavours when I visited: traditional (and vegan variant), peanut butter, salted caramel, mocha, strawberry, and blackberry lavender.

The traditional bar was thin and cut to the golden ratio. Elegantly layered and sliced. Perfect proportion of layers. Pleasant chocolate overtone. I could discern the texture of the coconut flakes. This was the most classic tasting bar of the day. 7.5/10.

Mon Petit Choux

This is a French bakery, in case you couldn’t tell from the name. It also looks like a popular brunch restaurant. They only have one variety of Nanaimo bar.

French technique shone in the assembly of the bar. Very clean layers. I’m not sure if it was intentional but the surface had a gorgeous mottled sheen. That’s the first time I’ve seen that on a Nanaimo bar. The dark chocolate top had a bitter aftertaste that balanced the sweetness. The middle layer was chocolatey too and subtly sweet. It was light like a mousse. Oats and possibly pistachios in the base were a crunchy surprise. This wouldn’t look out of place in a high-end restaurant. 8.5/10.

Red Bakery

Also in downtown, these bars were packed ready-to-go. Red’s Bakery had a large range of layered treats, including a Nanaimo bar cheesecake.

All layers were thick. The custard layer was too thick and was slightly cloying. On the positive side, there was a deep hit of chocolate. Relatively even layers, but some smudges when slicing. 7/10.

Serious Coffee

Serious Coffee is a chain in Vancouver Island. I tried the one downtown.

Unappealing plastic wrap aside, the uneven layers and edges detracted from the bar’s appearance. It was rough and ready, to put it nicely. The middle layer was too sweet and the entire confection devolved into an indistinct sugar mass, with some chocolate flavours. I did like the walnut pieces in the base. 4/10.

The coffee might be serious but the Nanaimo bars aren’t.

Other places to try

Tourism Nanaimo has an authoritative guide of all the places that have Nanaimo bars and their variations, even inedible ones. Some interesting places that weren’t open when I visited:

• The Modern Cafe Nanaimo: Nanaimo bar cheesecake.
• Waterfront Confections: Nanaimo bar ice cream.
• Hearthstone Artisan Bakery: Artisanal Nanaimo bars.

Where to eat Nanaimo bars in Toronto

Toronto doesn’t have great Nanaimo bars. Dufflet has a respectable version, but ever since their retail store closed, it’s tricky to find a cafe or supermarket that they supply to. Bobette and Belle has a pretty one with gold flakes but it looks better than it tastes. It’s a tad too sweet. Same for Gerrard Street Bakery.

Kawarthy Dairy has Nanaimo bar ice cream. It’s uncommon in supermarkets but their store on 888 Danforth Avenue has it in stock.

Verdict

For the best bar in Nanaimo, go to Mon Petit Choux. For traditional, go to Bocca Cafe.

1. Mon Petit Choux: 8.5/10
   Good quality ingredients. An elevated Nanaimo bar.
2. Bocca Cafe: 7.5/10
   Textbook. Many flavours of Nanaimo bars available.
3. Red Bakery: 7/10
   Standard. On the sweet side.
4. Serious Coffee: 4/10
   Roughly assembled sugar bomb.

Practical information

Bocca Cafe

Rating

7.5/10

Prices

Nanaimo bar: $5.25 (including tax)

Address

427 Fitzwilliam Street, Unit 103

Hours

Monday to Friday 1000h – 1600h
Saturday 1100h – 1600h

Date of visit

September 2022

Mon Petit Choux

Rating

8.5/10

Prices

Nanaimo bar: $5.25 (including tax)

Address

120 Commercial Street

Hours

Wednesday to Saturday 0800h – 1500h
Sunday 0900h – 1500h

Date of visit

September 2022

Red’s Bakery

Rating

7/10

Prices

Nanaimo bar: $4.45 (including tax)

Address

101 Commercial Street

Hours

Wednesday to Saturday 0800h – 1500h
Sunday 0900h – 1500h

Date of visit

September 2022

Serious Coffee

Rating

4/10

Prices

Nanaimo bar: $4.20 (including tax)

Address

60 Commercial Street, Unit 300 and other locations

Hours

Monday to Saturday 0700h – 1700h
Sunday 0730h – 1630h

Date of visit

September 2022