Classic Colombo-style biryani and short eats
There is no shortage of biryani restaurants in Toronto. The dominant style is Hyderabadi, cooked with a panoply of spices and sealed with dough to lock in flavours. Finding other regional styles is slightly more challenging. I haven’t come across a good Sri Lankan one until I stumbled upon Bhai Biryani.
The food
The striking ingredients of a Sri Lankan biryani (බුරියානි / பிரியாணி) are pineapple and fried chicken (note that not all renditions feature them). Bhai Biryani ups the ante by adding more accompaniments. Though it’s a bit more expensive than regular biryanis, it also has more components.
The chicken biryani not only had fried chicken, it also had curry chicken sitting below the rice (not pictured). Both had adequate seasoning but the fried chicken was slightly dry. The rice was aromatic with animal fats but the flipside was that it was oily. When eaten with the fried onion and cashew toppings, it felt like a Persian rice dish. The sweet-sour slice of pineapple reminded me that this was Sri Lankan.
The other components were a hard-boiled egg, raita (cucumber in yoghurt), pol sambol (fried grated coconut, chillies, shallots, and dried fish), and achcharu (spicy pickles). Of these, the pol sambol was the standout. The scent of fried coconut and chillies was unmistakable. It had this smokiness that went well with the subtle umami from the fish. The achcharu could be marinated longer and would appeal to those who prefer more raw flavours. Overall, the biryani is a solid 7.5/10.
Bhai biryani has more than biryanis. They have a cabinet of short eats (snacks, mostly deep-fried). The usual suspects like mutton rolls are there.
In the late afternoon, they make string hoppers (ඉඳිආප්ප / இடியாப்பம்; idiyappam; thin rice noodle discs) and various types of kothu roti (කොත්තු රොටි / கொத்து ரொட்டி; stir-fried strips of flatbread).
The place
Bhai biryani is in an unremarkable strip plaza, nestled around forested ravines. It’s not close to any major intersections but might be convenient for those who are visiting nearby Highland Creek Park.
This is strictly a takeout operation. The decor is no-nonsense.
Verdict
Hearty rendition of a Sri Lanka biryani with a variety of accompaniments. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Bhai Biryani
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Chicken biryani
- Prices
- Chicken biryani: $18.07 ($15.99 excluding tax)
- Address
- 3859 Lawrence Avenue East
- Hours
- Tuesday 1500h – 2100h
Wednesday to Thursday 1130h – 2200h
Friday to Saturday 1130h – 2300h
Sunday 1130h – 2100h - Date of visit
- May 2022