The quintessential fika companion
Cinnamon buns can be found all over Scandinavia but no country does it better than Sweden. Denmark, Iceland, and Norway make a simple and boring roll. Finland’s version, korvapuusti, is a runner-up with its interesting angled cuts. In Sweden, the bun is intricately knotted, resulting in the most aesthetically-pleasing variant.
Kanelbullar: the zenith of cinnamon buns
The Swedish cinnamon bun is called kanelbulle (singular) or kanelbullar (plural). It uses the same cardamom-tinged dough as other Nordic countries. The main difference is in its shape. At the better bakeries, the dough is braided and knotted. It results in a more airy bake. Also unique to Sweden, the kanelbullar are finished off with a sprinkling of crunchy white pearl sugar.
Sweden has a social ritual called fika. It’s essentially a coffee break with snacks. Kanelbullar is a popular option to accompany fika. If you consume them fast enough, you get cinammon and cardamon flavoured coffee, kind of like Indian chai.
As expected, the highest concentration of bakeries is in Stockholm. So, I set off on a quest to find the best kanelbullar in the city.
Fabrique Stenugnsbageri
One name that keeps popping up online for kanelbullar is Fabrique. It’s a chain with locations mostly in Stockholm.
The bun had very good flavour. It was like gummy candy. Braiding was tight and decent.
The dough was dense, sticky, and greasy. The high sugar content weighed down the dough, resulting in a low rise. 7/10.
The location I visited was close to Stockholm Central train station. So, it makes a convenient stop.
Tössebageriet
Tösse is a classic bakery founded in 1920, tucked in the trendy district of Östermalm.
The kanelbulle had a moderate amount of cinnamon and yeast. It was almost alcoholic. The braids were loose and organic.
The best part of the bun was the texture. It was crisp on top and soft at the bottom. 8.5/10.
Tösse also has Prinsesstårta (princess cake; cream-filled raspberry jam cake topped with green marzipan). Their individual portions are log-shaped, which aren’t as satisfying as round cakes. 6.5/10.
The interior is a mix of 1920s and 1990s.
Valhallabageriet
Also in Östermalm are 2 branches of Valhalla (the bakery, not the celestial plane). They have one other branch in Odengatan but obviously I had to go to the original location at Valhallavägen.
This kanelbulle had a raw and intense hit of cardamom. The shape was pleasingly round. The top was lacquered with a sugar wash, adding taste and a glossy finish.
The cinnamon was layered beautifully into the pastry, but it played second fiddle to the cardamom. On the negative side, the dough was soft and mushy. It didn’t rise as much as other enriched doughs. 8/10.
Valhalla looks like a neighbourhood bakery from the 1970s that has since gentrified. It’s the smallest cafe in this list.
Vete-Katten
The most famous cafe-bakery in Stockholm is Vete-Katten. Like Tösse, it was established in the 1920s but it’s grown to be more successful with multiple branches in Stockholm.
Their kanelbulle was very cinnamon-y with just a hint of cardamom. It was slightly sweet. The bun was more irregularly shaped than others in this taste test.
It was also rather chewy. My only gripe was that it was not warm. 7.5/10.
Vete-Katten is also the place to try Prinsesstårta. Refreshing cream with just the right amount of tart raspberry jam. It’s the standard to beat. 8/10.
There is ample seating in the cafe and a huge variety of baked goods to choose from.
Where to get kanelbullar in Toronto
FIKA Cafe is the only Swedish eatery in Toronto and the only place to get kanelbullar reliably. Go early.
In November/December, the Swedish Christmas Market might have kanelbullar, but they’re the regular rolls instead of the intricate knotted ones.
Verdict
- Tössebageriet (8.5/10): Excellent texture.
- Valhallabageriet (8/10): Neat and pretty. For those who prefer more cardamom than cinnamon.
- Vete-Katten (7.5/10): For those who prefer more cinnamon than cardamom.
- Fabrique Stenugnsbageri (7/10): For those with a sweet tooth.
Practical information
Fabrique Stenugnsbageri
- Rating
- 7/10
- Prices
- Kanelbulle: 36 kr
- Address
- Klarabergsgatan 60 and many other locations.
- Hours
- Monday to Friday: 0700h – 1900h
Saturday to Sunday: 0900h – 1800h - Date of visit
- May 2022
Tössebageriet
- Rating
- 8.5/10
- Prices
- Kanelbulle: 38 kr
Prinsesstårta slice: 51 kr - Address
- Karlavägen 77
- Hours
- Monday to Friday: 0700h – 1800h
Saturday to Sunday: 0900h – 1700h - Date of visit
- May 2022
Valhallabageriet
- Rating
- 8/10
- Prices
- Kanelbulle: 33 kr
Prinsesstårta slice: 55 kr - Address
- Valhallavägen 174, Östermalmsgatan 92, and Odengatan 19
- Hours
- Monday to Friday: 0700h – 1800h
Saturday: 0800h – 1500h
Sunday: 0900h – 1500h - Date of visit
- May 2022
Vete-Katten
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Prices
- Kanelbulle: 33 kr
Prinsesstårta slice: 58 kr - Address
- Kungsgatan 55 and other locations
- Hours
- Monday to Friday: 0730h – 2000h
Saturday to Sunday: 0900h – 1900h - Date of visit
- May 2022