Hyderabad Biryani Hut - Global Toronto Eats

Solid, good value biryanis

Hyderabad Biryani Hut is one the better biryani specialists in Toronto. By specialists, I mean they have at least 8 types of biryani. It’s even in the name of the restaurant. I was hoping they would stick to that but alas, their menu includes other cookie-cutter North Indian dishes that far outnumber biryanis.

Exterior of Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Hyderabad Biryani Hut

Dum, dum, dum, DUM biryani

Biryani is a distinctly Indian rice dish that has its roots in Iranian polo (probably). Both are prepared by cooking rice halfway, then finished in stock. Meat is layered below the rice and cooked together. Alternatively, meat can be cooked separately and added when the rice is done. Unlike the Iranian version that is fruity and more restrained, the Indian biryani is fiery, more elaborate, and a meal on its own. There are dozens of variations throughout India, Pakistan, and the diaspora in East Africa, South Africa, and Southeast Asia. But the most revered variant is Hyderabadi dum biryani (హైదరాబాదీ దమ్ బిర్యానీ), from Hyderabad, India.

Dum (దమ్) refers to cooking over low heat with a flat-bottomed vessel. The vessel is sealed to keep steam in and impart a bit of pressure cooking. Traditionally, dough is used for sealing. These days, one can wrap a moist towel around the rim of the vessel and put a heavy weight on the lid for the same effect. This method is less tedious and messy.

For authenticity, I look for restaurants that use dough to seal the vessel. Unfortunately, I couldn’t tell if this was the case with Hyderabadi Biryani Hut. The biryani was cooked and transferred to a different bowl for serving. To be fair, that’s how it is done in restaurants in Hyderabad. Some Toronto restaurants cook and serve biryani in the same vessel. They leave the dough on so you can slice it open and uncover the mouthwatering biryani within. Khau Gully is one such restaurant.

The food

The highlight is the namesake Hyderabad Dum Biryani. The chicken biryani is a hefty portion and costs just $11.29. Lamb version is $4.52 more. It comes with raita (yoghurt salad) and mirchi ka salan (chilli and peanut curry), as with tradition. The biryani looked like a typical Hyderabadi biryani. Garnished with caramelized onions. I liked that they did not add artificial red colouring to the rice, as some other restaurants do.

Hyderabad Dum Biryani Chicken from Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Hyderabad Dum Chicken Biryani

Rice grains were separated and not mushy. The chicken had mild heat and was tender. Their website proudly proclaims that they don’t use MSG. Indeed, I didn’t taste any. I could taste coriander, cumin, cloves, and cardamom. Same as other biryanis, but the secret is in the proportion. It wasn’t too salty and didn’t overwhelm the chicken. Portions are generous.

Chicken meat in biryani from Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Chicken meat in biryani

Raita was classic. Mirchi ka salan is a Hyderabad specialty. I found the flavours of this one needed to meld together more. More chunky peanuts would be nice.

Pro tip: get their weekday lunch specials for less than $10.

Biryani and meat menu from Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Biryani and meat dishes

Appetizers and vegetarian menu from Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Biryani and meat dishes

The place

Hyderabad Biryani Hut is really close to Scarborough Town Centre, so access is no problem. The interior is casual, mid-range, family friendly.

Interior of Hyderabad Biryani Hut — Dining area

Comparing to biryanis in Hyderabad

How does this compare to the gold standards in Hyderabad? This is a pretty good biryani, but it is one or two points lower than the top restaurants in Hyderabad. The spices seem to be more potent there and the rice is superior. If you are on a biryani quest in Hyderabad, try these places.

Paradise. Go to the original location in Secunderabad. Chicken biryani is outstanding. But it’s not spicy and kind of tame. Regardless, this was my favourite of the lot.
Bawarchi. There are many imitators with the same name around the world but this is the only location at RTC Cross Road. Competitor to Paradise for best chicken biryani.
Hotel Shadab. Near Charminar. Famous for mutton biryani. Much more spicy than other biryanis on this list. I found the mutton too gamey for me but you might like it.
Cafe Bahar. Massive portions. Some people like this but I found it one-dimensional.

Chicken biryani from Paradise in Secunderabad, India

Verdict

Solid, affordable biryanis. 7.5/10.

Practical information

Name: Hyderabad Biryani Hut
Rating: 7.5/10
Recommended dishes: Hyderabad dum chicken biryani
Prices: Hyderabad dum chicken biryani: $11.29 ($9.99 excluding tax)
Address: 1587 Ellesmere Road
Hours: Monday to Thursday 1130h – 2230h
Friday 1130h – 2300h
Saturday 1200h – 2300h
Sunday 1200h – 2230h
Date of visit: December 2019