British standards for the modern age
One day I will write an article of how I searched London in vain for delicious traditional British food. Well, I should have just come to Kitchen on Sixth in New Toronto instead. They do all the classics justice and even surpass the originals with their contemporary flair.
Kitchen on Sixth got its name from its original location at 6th Avenue. They’ve since moved two blocks west, to 8th Avenue. They’ve kept the old moniker but cheekily crossed out the word “on” and replaced it with “Kitchen off Sixth” on their store window.
The food
The menu has all the national dishes like tikka masala, fish and chips, and steak and kidney pie. They don’t stray too far from the original recipes but there are smart adaptations like peameal bacon with Yorkshire pudding.
If visiting on a Sunday, I highly recommend their Sunday roast. The description doesn’t sound exciting: roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, mashed potato, vegetables, and gravy. However, it was expertly done when I tried it. Please excuse the messy picture below because I accidentally tilted the takeout bag.
The roast beef was medium-rare and still reddish-pink in the centre. Seasoned perfectly on the outside with salt and pepper. Yorkshire pudding was flakey. Mashed potatoes were British instead of American style: starchy, not creamy. No lumps and I enjoyed the texture. Even something as simple as blanched carrots and broccoli were done well. They retained their flavour and had some bite. Tying everything together was the umami-rich gravy. The best Sunday roast I have had with the caveat that I don’t usually eat this dish a lot. 8.5/10.
With the roast, diners can add an appetizer or dessert for $5.65 more each. I had to try their Banoffee pie. Banoffee = banana + toffee. As before, don’t mind the disheveled look in the photo.
The pie crust was crisp and buttery. It held well against the wet contents. The toffee drizzled on top showed restraint and wasn’t cloying. It let the taste of bananas come through, which wasn’t artificially intense either. If there was just a bit more fresh bananas, it would have been perfect. A small amount of chips added textural interest. Surprisingly light. 8/10.
Kitchen on Sixth is also the only place I know of that has a large selection of British pies. Including a contemporary version of fisherman’s pie. Fisherman’s pie is similar to shepherd’s pie, but with white sauce and fish instead of brown sauce and lamb. I bought the frozen version to try it out.
The difference from traditional pies was readily apparent. It was coated with lots of bread crumbs—a modern technique. This created more crunch and a pleasing golden hue when baked. Thyme was sprinkled liberally on top.
The advertised fish was haddock and trout but I couldn’t really tell them apart. It tasted like fish all right. The texture was slightly chewy, as with most defrosted fish. The white cream sauce and peas were standard and bland. I enjoyed the mashed potatoes the most. Combined with the sauce, it was creamy and satisfying. The biggest disappointment was the excessive amount of thyme. That threw the balance off-kilter. Overall, it felt like a slightly better version of a supermarket frozen pie. I would love to retry this pie when it is freshly-made. 7/10.
The place
Kitchen On Sixth is a convivial restaurant that borders on gastropub. It has a touch of whimsy, like 12 eclectic clocks gathered on a wall.
From time to time, they have live music.
A toy soldier stands guard over the entrance, along with other knick-knacks.
There is a spacious lot next to the restaurant for outdoor dining. It even has lighting set up. It’s a great place to people-watch, along bustling Lakeshore Boulevard.
Verdict
Impeccable British classics for the modern age. 8.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Kitchen On Sixth
- Rating
- 8.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Sunday beef roast
Banoffee pie - Prices (including tax)
- Sunday beef roast: $16.95, additional $5.65 for appetizer or dessert
Fisherman’s pie (medium): $15.00 - Address
- 2976 Lakeshore Boulevard West
- Hours
- Wednesday to Friday 1500h – 2000h
Saturday to Sunday 1100h – 2000h - Date of visit
- May 2020, April 2021