Simple Egyptian street food done exceedingly well
Egyptian food isn’t typically my first choice of Middle Eastern cuisine. There are not many unique dishes and flavours are muted. Vegetarians will have an easy time as the dominant street food in Egypt is the trinity of koshari (كشري; rice, lentils, macaroni, spicy tomato sauce), ful medames (فول مدمس; mashed fava beans), and taameya (الطعمية; falafel). In fact, these three dishes are usually found together at street stands.
I remember surviving for weeks in Egypt on these fast foods. Ful doesn’t appeal to me because it’s heavy and an unappetizing shade of grey. Taameya is all right as all deep-fried foods are. But the Egyptian food highlight has got to be koshari. The tomato sauce gives a much-needed tangy kick to an otherwise bland cuisine. The different starches also add textural complexity.
There are only a handful of restaurants in Toronto that have koshari. Papyrus is the best of them. It also excels in taameya and the humble baladi (بلدي; Egyptian flatbread). Their key to success is having a simple menu and executing each component well.
The food
Papyrus has the standard menu of ful medames, taameya, and koshari. The koshari came with an assertive and piquant garlic vinegar on the side. This is not to be missed as it elevates the tasty dish even further.
Unlike snack-size portions in Cairo, Papyrus gave a huge portion. Then again, it was 5 times more expensive than in Cairo. The caramelized onions were perfectly browned and aromatic. Each lentil retained integrity and had a slight bite to them. Same goes for the rice and pasta. Most cheap places will overcook these. The tomato sauce was mildly spicy and tangy, bringing the multiple layers together. And did I mention the garlic vinegar? It’s magical how a bit of funky garlic and acid can transform a heavy dish.
The only non-vegetarian dish here is the Cairo hawawshi (حواوشي). They describe it as a burger but it’s more of a kofta wrap. The flat, minced meat patty has the same flavour profile as kofta: onions, black pepper, and parsley . Quite standard. The component that impressed me the most was the baladi. It was pressed like a panini and the exterior was browned to near-crispness. There was a slight scent of toasted wheat. Interior was chewy.
The sandwich came with arugula as a modern touch. It was ok but would have worked better inside the sandwich instead of on the side. I didn’t care too much for the pickled turnips. They were too thick and could be halved to better match the texture of the sandwich.
I don’t consider soup and salad to be a main, so they only have 4 mains. Papyrus has a tiny bit more variety in the dessert department. In fact, they are known for their photogenic treats, which are proudly displayed by the window. The selection usually includes basbousa (بسبوسة; semolina cake with syrup) and bird’s nest konafa (كنافة; shredded kataifi dough in a nest form, with goodies in the centre). The konafa Canadiana is a playful fusion touch, a broad canoe occupied by blueberries, hazelnuts, and maple syrup. The pastries are constructed delicately, which may justify their price at $5.64 to $7.90 per slice.
The place
Papyrus is definitely a step up from fast food places in Egypt. The interior is bright and modern. Contemporary artworks adorn the walls. There isn’t much seating space but it is a pleasant enough space to have a quick meal.
Verdict
Simple street food executed really well. Incredible koshari. Slightly pricey for mostly vegetarian food. 8.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Papyrus
- Rating
- 8.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Koshari
- Prices
- Koshari: $14.68 ($12.99 excluding tax)
Cairo hawawshi (half): $9.03 ($7.99 excluding tax)
Bird’s nest konafa $7.90 ($6.99 excluding tax) - Address
- 337 Danforth Avenue
- Hours
- Tuesday to Thursday 1200h – 2000h
Friday to Saturday 1200h – 2100h - Date of visit
- November 2019, July 2020