Flakey samsas and intricate Uzbek manti
Uzbekistan is a poster child for Central Asian cuisine. It has all the representative dishes like plov (rice cooked with meat stock and the occasional dried fruit), laghman (thick, handmade noodles), and several varieties of kebab. If there is a Central Asian restaurant somewhere outside Central Asia, chances are high that it is branded as an Uzbek one.
There are a handful of decent Uzbek restaurants in Toronto. Uzbek cuisine is popular amongst Russians and hence they are usually located near Russian enclaves in North York or Vaughan. But not Puff Samosa. They chose to set up shop in decidedly non-Russian Scarborough. And an industrial park at that. Not that I am complaining. Scarborough sorely lacks Central Asian restaurants.
Puff Samosa is best described as a samsa specialist that also runs an industrial choyxona (чойхона; teahouse). It has none of the charms of a traditional choyxona and all the brutal architecture of a pre-fabricated commercial block. I visited when COVID indoor dining restrictions were in effect, so I didn’t get a chance to linger for tea. But the food alone is still worth the trip.
The food
Obviously, their signature dish is samsa (samosa). They have veggie options but I tried the chicken and beef ones.
The samsas live up to the name of the restaurant. They are huge and flakey. A delightful change from the plain dough crusts I’ve had across Central Asia. Look at the lamination in the dough! The puff pastry makes all the difference and they’re one of the top three samosas in Toronto.
My favourite was the beef one. Just enough fat and gravy for a moist filling. The potatoes were al dente and provided textural contrast. Mild spices whetted the appetite but the slight sweetness threw me off a little. Less sugar and more aromatics would make the taste perfect. 8/10.
I was glad the chicken samsa wasn’t just the same thing with a different protein. The spice mixture was different. Onions were more more pronounced and the texture was mushier. The taste wasn’t as punchy as the beef one but it was still enjoyable to eat. 7.5/10.
The sleeper hit here was actually the manti (dumplings). The dough was so thin that it was translucent. I’ve never seen manti made like that before. I usually get thick dough wrappers. Each manta was substantial—probably a tablespoon worth’s of ground beef and veal. Simple but effective spices were used. The tang from the sumac helped lift up the heavy meat. It would have scored higher if the folding was neater. 8/10.
The place
Puff Samosa is in the middle of an industrial estate just north of the Golden Mile. It doesn’t win points for convenience but I suppose its main clientele do pickup and bulk orders. The interior is stark but there are some basic tables and chairs for seating.
Verdict
Best Central Asian manti in Toronto. One of the best samosas and shockingly good value all round. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Puff Samosa
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Beef samosa
Manti - Prices (including tax)
- Samosa (beef, chicken, veggie, or spinach and mozarella): $1.50
Manti: $12.85 - Address
- 30 Bertrand Avenue, Unit A3
- Hours
- Monday to Saturday 1030h – 1930h
- Date of visit
- June 2021