Venerable institution for simply great Southern BBQ
Memphis BBQ and its sibling Big Bone BBQ have been around for decades. They brought BBQ to the Toronto region before (most) people could tell the difference between the regional styles of Southern BBQ. Since then, more BBQ outlets have opened up with different styles and price points. Even so, Memphis BBQ remains one of the few restaurants that serve Memphis-style BBQ.
Memphis BBQ
Memphis-style BBQ is all about the pork. The sauce is moderately thick and sweet and can either be incorporated during cooking or omitted entirely. Wet and dry preparations are equally popular. Memphis BBQ (the restaurant) does the wet style.
The defining characteristic of Kansas City BBQ is its sauce: sweet and thick. Other than that, it isn’t very distinctive. The cooking technique and favoured meats are shared with other styles in Southern USA.
Kansas King is one of two Kansas City BBQ restaurants in the Toronto region (the other is Hank Daddy’s Barbecue). It stands out from other BBQ restaurants with its fast-food concept. Don’t underestimate it though; its food is a definite step up from regular fast-food restaurants.
With so many awesome smash burger joints opening in the past year, I thought it would be good to spotlight good ol’ burger places that have been in Toronto for decades. Jumbo Burgers is one of my favourites for classic burgers.
Jumbo Burgers
The building and decor hasn’t changed since the 1970s. It sits in a dilapidated location by the railway tracks in The Junction. Just like in the 1970s, it’s cash only unless you order from food apps. One good thing is that it opens early and closes past midnight.
Side profile of Jumbo Burgers. I’ve blurred out boring graffiti tags.
The OG burgers of Toronto
There are about a dozen or so burger restaurants in Toronto that have been around for decades.
Apache Burgers
Burger Shack
Dairy Freeze
Golden Star
Harry’s Drive-In
Johnny’s Hamburgers
Jumbo Burgers
Lick’s Home Burgers
Real McCoy
Shamrock Burgers
Square Boy
They seem to follow a common theme. Interiors that haven’t changed since they first opened (though prices have), diner or bar seating, and a backlit fast-food-style menu above the counter in all-caps letters. As for food, the patties are thick and grilled, the buns are of unknown provenance, and burgers are complete with sad-looking chunks of iceberg lettuce and big slices of tomato. In what might be a Toronto peculiarity, more than a few of these places also make souvlaki (Greek grilled meat skewers). I suppose that since they have a grill, they might as well use it for all sorts of foods.
Yes, you read that right. This is one of the few places in Toronto that has tongue on its regular menu. Beef offal is difficult to prepare correctly and can easily end up tough and rubbery. Also, parts like tongue and heart have a strong beef taste that can be a turn off. I, for one, am thrilled that FAMO is gutsy enough to offer it and make it palatable to the masses.
I’ve been babbling about tongue so far but that’s not really FAMO’s key strength. Their mission is to craft creative sandwiches. Their fillings are certainly not run-of-the-mill ones like BLT or cold cuts. Unconventional as they are, the combinations work.
Top-notch, approachable Modern Canadian food (COVID-19 takeout edition)
Just a block south of Queen subway station is Richmond Station. Except it’s a restaurant, not a subway station. The choice of name is deliberate. Its logo even features a subway train. Think of Richmond Station as a stop on the metaphorical culinary train.
Richmond Station
It’s difficult to put a finger on the cuisine served here. It ranges from pasta to braised meat to ethnic inspirations like mulligatawny (British-Indian curry soup). They are dishes that you might have seen in other restaurants but with Canadian twists. The menu changes seasonally. So, I would say Richmond Station is the exemplar for Modern Canadian cuisine.
How a buffet restaurant adapted admirably in the times of COVID-19
Mandarin is known amongst Toronto residents for their all-you-can-eat buffet, with vaguely Chinese dishes and mishmash of dishes like sushi and pizza. Long-time Torontonians still bemoan the loss of crab legs from the line-up. Despite online criticisms, food quality is decent and is perhaps the best place to try Canadian-Chinese food. People don’t go there just for the food. Nostalgia plays a factor too. Mandarin prides itself as a family restaurant and surely many a celebratory meal went down at its restaurants.
Mandarin restaurant, on the ground floor of Canada Square
I was curious about how Mandarin was doing at a time when buffets are not allowed to operate. They held back during the initial months of the pandemic but quickly pivoted to takeout. Is there still a reason to patronize Mandarin when they have lost their main value proposition? Thankfully, the answer is yes.
For this review, I went to the closest Mandarin downtown, at Yonge and Eglinton.
If you didn’t know, the best time to get ice cream is in the dead of winter. Go during the night if you can. That way, you can avoid summer lineups. It might sound like a joke, but not until you see the queues at Bang Bang Ice Cream during warmer months.
Bang Bang Ice Cream
Bang Bang seems like any other boutique ice cream store on the surface. Indie, takeout only, free samples, some creative flavours, but not eyebrow-raising like Death In Venice. Their strength lies in perfecting what they do. I am no ice cream connoisseur but Bang Bang is superior to chi-chi ice creameries I’ve tried in foodie American cities.
Their unique claims to fame include ice cream cradled in Hong Kong egg waffles (鷄蛋仔) and signature flavours like Totaro (ube and coconut) and London Fog (Earl Grey). “Bakery” is in Bang Bang’s full name, though they really only produce confections that can be slathered with ice cream. This isn’t a knock on their baked products. They are good but ice cream is really Bang Bang’s raison d’être.
Butter tarts are one of the few food specialties of Ontario and indeed, Canada. It’s not famous because it’s not much different from other tarts nor is it a craveable food. But if you want to taste what the fuss is all about, head to The Maids’ Cottage or anywhere that carries their goods.
The Maids’ Cottage
Butter tart components
Although butter tarts contain butter, the predominant flavour is indistinct sugar. A butter tart is made of shortcrust pastry and a filling of butter, egg, and lots of sugar. It is almost identical to sugar pies from Quebec or American pecan pie. From this basic recipe, it is not unusual to add other ingredients like pecans or raisins. At commercial bakeries, they are usually palm-sized so that customers can mix and match flavours.
The most difficult component to pull off is the filling. Nobody likes a liquid filling, so the key to getting a right consistency lies with temperature control and ingredient mix. Personal preferences may vary but I think the best consistency is one where the filling has just set. No liquid should run out when one bites into the tart, but the filling should bulge a little.
The pastry is just standard shortcrust pastry. Any decent baker should be able to create a crumbly shell while still being solid enough to hold the filling and withstand slicing. Traditionally, the pastry shell is thick.
The food
The Maids’ Cottage has the largest variety of butter tarts in the country. They have seasonal specials and gluten-free (GF) options. When I went, there were these flavours:
This restaurant closed on 13 June 2021. Thanks for the memories!
Finally, a truly spicy Southern barbecue
American barbecue is slowly gaining ground in Toronto. Just 10 years ago, one would be hard-pressed to find a good barbecue, let alone regional styles like Texas, Memphis, Alabama, and others. The first big regional style to emerge was Central Texas (Beach Hill Smokehouse, Adamson Barbecue). Then, Kansas City style came rolling in (Hank Daddy’s, Kansas King). Not forgetting about homegrown Toronto style (Big Crow), the BBQ scene is indeed burgeoning here. It is only a matter of time before Carolina barbecue appears. Until then, you can get a small taste of it at Uncle Ray’s Food & Liquor.
Uncle Ray’s looks like a typical hipster Southern bar on the surface but goes for a different flavour profile than its competitors. It packs more heat. Its calling card is actually fried chicken, not barbecue. And both are good examples of soulful, lip-smacking Southern cuisine.
Uncle Ray’s Food & Liquor
As its name suggests, Uncle Ray’s Food & Liquor is also a drinking hole. However, I did not partake in libations due to COVID-19 restrictions. The liquor counter looks inviting and takes centre stage in the restaurant. Various bottles of bourbon line the counter.
Poke Guys was one of the first to jump on the poke fad when it hit Toronto in 2015. While other establishments have went bust, Poke Guys is still going strong because of two reasons: ingredients and location. Situated between the Financial District and the shopping zone around Yonge-Dundas Square, it gets a steady stream of customers all week. Of course, the food has to be good to get repeat business.
Poke Guys
The poke bowl fad
Traditional Hawaiian poke is very simple. It is just marinated raw fish. The flavours aren’t too crazy. The usual suspects are shoyu (soy sauce), sesame, and seaweed. Poke morphed into a rice bowl on mainland USA and exploded in popularity in 2014. Since it really is a salad bowl, anything goes. There is a dizzying variety of toppings and proteins to choose from. Japanese ingredients are popular, like tobiko (fish roe) and gari (pickled ginger). Kimchi, avocado, and jalapeños are also ubiquitous.
Some people view poke as deconstructed sushi or a less skilled version of chirashi don (raw fish on rice). I view it as a food in its own right. I agree it doesn’t take a lot of training to put together a poke bowl. What it lacks in refinement more than makes up for it in creativity. The keys to a good poke bowl are
Freshness
Harmony
Proportion
Ideally, the fish should be fresh and not from frozen. Vegetables should be crisp. All components should complement one another. A common mistake is to have too many strong flavours like kimchi and onions. It overwhelms the delicate taste of raw fish. Another pet peeve of mine is having too much filler materials and not enough protein.
