In search of the best kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) in Stockholm

The quintessential fika companion

Cinnamon buns can be found all over Scandinavia but no country does it better than Sweden. Denmark, Iceland, and Norway make a simple and boring roll. Finland’s version, korvapuusti, is a runner-up with its interesting angled cuts. In Sweden, the bun is intricately knotted, resulting in the most aesthetically-pleasing variant.

Sergels torg, Stockholm
Sergels torg, Stockholm

Kanelbullar: the zenith of cinnamon buns

The Swedish cinnamon bun is called kanelbulle (singular) or kanelbullar (plural). It uses the same cardamom-tinged dough as other Nordic countries. The main difference is in its shape. At the better bakeries, the dough is braided and knotted. It results in a more airy bake. Also unique to Sweden, the kanelbullar are finished off with a sprinkling of crunchy white pearl sugar.

Sweden has a social ritual called fika. It’s essentially a coffee break with snacks. Kanelbullar is a popular option to accompany fika. If you consume them fast enough, you get cinammon and cardamon flavoured coffee, kind of like Indian chai.

As expected, the highest concentration of bakeries is in Stockholm. So, I set off on a quest to find the best kanelbullar in the city.

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FIKA

Tiny but competent selection of Swedish pastries

Fika means coffee break in Swedish, or for some, a social ritual. That’s what FIKA Cafe in Toronto offers. Some coffee and sugary treats and a lazy afternoon lounge surrounded by Scandinavian designs. Well, at least that’s what it was before the COVID-19 pandemic. Today, FIKA does a brisk business with takeout coffee and pastries.

Exterior of Fika
FIKA Cafe

FIKA has less than four traditional Swedish foods but it does them well. For a proper Swedish restaurant, IKEA is the only option, unfortunately. FIKA sells Scandinavian-inspired sandwiches like ones with smoked salmon. However, their strength is with coffee and sweet pastries, the very essence of fika.

Patio of Fika
Patio of FIKA. Losers have vandalized the handwritten welcome message on the railing.

The food

Their pastries sell out as fast as they did before the pandemic. Get there before noon for the full selection.

Pastry display case at Fika
Pastry display case. Clockwise from top left: cinnamon rolls, ginger snaps, pecan brownies, spiced oatmeal currant cookies, spiced carrot cupcakes with lemon icing, semlor.

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