A minor twist in pizza assembly
Pop quiz: how many Saskatchewan food specialties can you name? There are only two.
Saskatoon berry pie and Regina-style pizza. Other foods like perogies and cabbage rolls can be found outside Saskatchewan. Foods like spudnuts (potato doughnuts) and Doukhobor bread are only available during summer fairs. Sure, these invoke loving memories for Saskatchewan residents but the casual tourist might be interested in something more unique.
The answer is found in Regina.
Pizza as deli sandwich
Regina-style pizza has a small but dedicated following. It’s a minor variation of pizza that is unknown in other parts of Saskatchewan, let alone Canada. Heck, even some Regina residents don’t know that their pizza is a style on its own.
The defining characteristic of Regina-style pizza is its stack of toppings. It’s like a deli sandwich or lasagna. Different ingredients are spread on the dough in tiers and finished off with cheese as the top layer. When one cuts into the pizza, one should clearly see all the layers. Other than the distribution of toppings, it’s pretty much a normal North American pizza. Thick, doughy crust, smothered with mozzarella and non-gourmet ingredients.
Typical toppings are cheap and the same as national restaurant chains: ham, salami, pepperoni, bacon, green peppers, onions, mushroom, olives, pineapple, and more. The signature combination is “all dressed”, which includes all the deli meats and some token vegetables.
A good Regina-style pizza shouldn’t be overstuffed. A tendency is for the bread to become soggy and weighed down by all the ingredients. Connoisseurs talk about meat quality, but frankly there isn’t a big difference in cured meats at that price point. Don’t expect charcuterie. It’s mass-market processed meat.
Houston Pizza
What better place to try than Houston Pizza, the pioneer of Regina-style pizza. They started out at Hill Avenue, in a residential area near the airport. They have since branched out in Regina and other cities in Saskatchewan.
They have fancy options like Thai chicken and taco pizza. For a fair benchmark, I went with classic flavours. I got a personal sized (8-inch) pizza with 2 toppings: sausage and mushroom.
The pizza had good height. It reminded me of classic Pizza Hut pies. Thick bread base. Abundant cheese and blistered golden brown.
The difference is when one cuts into it. All layers of ingredients are clearly visible in a cross-section. For my pie, it was cheese, sausage, mushrooms, tomato sauce, and bread base. To be honest, I was disappointed with the type of sausage. I was expecting crumbled Italian sausage but got something like kielbasa. It looked and tasted like ham. It was my fault for not clarifying.
My favourite part was the crust and bread. It was crackly and caramelized on the outside and spongy on the inside. The bottom of the pie managed to retain its structure despite the wet ingredients. If there were more toppings, it would have weeped. Unfortunately, the rest of the pie didn’t wow me. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t bad. It tasted like a typical Pizza Hut pie. 6.5/10.
Interior 
Menu and counter 
Regina-inspired painting
Juliana Pizza
Another place that has favourable online reviews is Juliana Pizza. It’s in a nondescript strip mall northwest of downtown.
Like Houston Pizza, they have gourmet flavours like Buffalo ranch chicken and Greek chicken with tzatziki. Again, I stuck with classic flavours. Since I was hungrier, I got the works: an 8-inch all-dressed pie. It had salami, sausage, ham, pepperoni, onions, green peppers, pineapple, and mushrooms.
The pizza was noticeably thicker because of the abundance of ingredients. The cheese was well-done. Nearly the entire surface was browned.
The magic of Regina-style pizza reveals itself in a cross-section. It was a deli meat lover’s delight. Unlike normal pizzas that sprinkle a few slices of meat, this pie had entire sheets of processed meat blanketing the pie. It was too salty and greasy for me. I couldn’t finish it, had to bring it home, and limit myself to a slice a day. Well, I asked for it but am surprised that people can eat an all-dressed pizza. I would be happy with just two or three ingredients.
Even though the pie had an abundance of different meats, they were barely distinguishable in taste and colour. They merged into a salty mass. The bread had become soggy from the weight of the toppings and wasn’t able to stand out. It was definitely overloaded. Perhaps less ambitious toppings would fare better. 6/10.
Counter 
Dining area
Other pizza places to check out
Some other places that were recommended but I haven’t tried:
- The Copper Kettle. Conveniently located downtown, they are famous for their spinach and feta pie.
- Tumblers Pizza. One of the OG but no longer has a physical presence. Instead, get their frozen pies from supermarkets in Regina.
- Western Pizza. Another pioneer. Has the most branches.
Similar places in Toronto
There are no Regina-style pizzas in Toronto. If you want an old-school pizza that tastes similar but without the layered construction, try Danforth Pizza House or even Pizza Hut.
Verdict
Houston Pizza was my favourite. It was not a fair comparison because I picked different flavours and it was less stuffed than the one I tried at Juliana’s. Still, I liked that the cheese was not completely browned and it had a looser bread crumb. As for quality of toppings and tomato sauce, there really isn’t much difference between the two.
Practical information
Houston Pizza
- Rating
- 6.5/10
- Prices
- 2-topping pizza (8-inch): $12.75 ($11.49 excluding tax)
- Address
- 3422 Hill Avenue (original location) and other branches
- Hours
- Monday to Thursday 1100h – 0100h
Friday to Saturday 1100h – 0200h
Sunday 1100h – 0100h - Date of visit
- August 2021
Juliana Pizza
- Rating
- 6/10
- Prices
- All-dressed pizza (8-inch): $16.60 ($14.95 excluding tax)
- Address
- 5064 4th Avenue
- Hours
- Monday to Saturday 1100h – 2200h
Sunday 1600h – 2200h - Date of visit
- August 2021