This restaurant closed on 13 June 2021. Thanks for the memories!
Finally, a truly spicy Southern barbecue
American barbecue is slowly gaining ground in Toronto. Just 10 years ago, one would be hard-pressed to find a good barbecue, let alone regional styles like Texas, Memphis, Alabama, and others. The first big regional style to emerge was Central Texas (Beach Hill Smokehouse, Adamson Barbecue). Then, Kansas City style came rolling in (Hank Daddy’s, Kansas King). Not forgetting about homegrown Toronto style (Big Crow), the BBQ scene is indeed burgeoning here. It is only a matter of time before Carolina barbecue appears. Until then, you can get a small taste of it at Uncle Ray’s Food & Liquor.
Uncle Ray’s looks like a typical hipster Southern bar on the surface but goes for a different flavour profile than its competitors. It packs more heat. Its calling card is actually fried chicken, not barbecue. And both are good examples of soulful, lip-smacking Southern cuisine.
As its name suggests, Uncle Ray’s Food & Liquor is also a drinking hole. However, I did not partake in libations due to COVID-19 restrictions. The liquor counter looks inviting and takes centre stage in the restaurant. Various bottles of bourbon line the counter.
When I first visited, Uncle Ray’s had just re-opened after COVID lockdown and indoor dining was still prohibited. They had a small area for selling sauces, oils, and other merchandise. I thought it was a nice touch that added some life to the barren corner. This section no longer exists today and is returned to dining space. It makes better sense since there probably isn’t walk-in demand for groceries.
The food
Uncle Ray’s signature dish is the Lightning sandwich. This is a deep-fried, de-boned chicken thigh slathered with “spicy dunk” sauce, dusted with cayenne and habanero peppers, sandwiched between toasted white bread. It’s generically Southern but undoubtedly spicy delicious.
The chicken was massive and crunchy. Moist on the inside and a pleasant heat on the exterior. Unlike other hot chicken sandwiches in the city, this one actually brought a slight sweat to my brow. Bread was fluffy and gently crisped from toasting. Contrast of textures is a good thing.
The shreds of iceberg lettuce looked sad. Fresher vegetables like arugula or cucumbers could have added colour and herbaceous notes to round out the sandwich.
Sides are not an afterthought here; they can sometimes be better than the mains. The spicy baked beans were beautifully smokey from the rendered bacon. And they were moderately spicy, truly delivering on their name. The complex taste alternated between heat and smoke. It is the best baked beans I’ve had in Toronto.
Even the Southern coleslaw was spicy. Well, not as much as the baked beans but there was definitely a lingering sensation of heat. Could be from the raw red onions. In any case, the slaw was crunchy and was not sweet nor greasy like other slaws can be.
The other main category of food is barbecue. While good, it is nowhere as great as the fried chicken nor other dedicated barbecue pits in Toronto. As usual, the differentiating factor is spiciness. The chicken and ribs platter for one (available only during the early months of COVID-19) was the easiest way to sample the two proteins: pork side ribs and chicken.
The chicken thigh was spicy (no surprise) and mildly sweet. The skin was crisp but the meat was a tad overcooked. The Carolina side ribs had a lot of blackened dry rub. It was smokey, peppery, and faintly spicy; might be from vinegar or chilli. Unfortunately, the ribs were starting to dry and toughen up. It was by no means a bad barbecue. I visited when there wasn’t a lot of business. Perhaps the quality would be better when cooked with a larger batch of meats.
Buttermilk biscuits were classic. Crumbly insides and golden brown crust. Flecks of pepper added visual interest to the monotonous biscuit but did not impart much taste. The hot honey butter sure did. Notice a theme? To be honest, the hot honey butter wasn’t spicy. It was sugary and creamy, like buttercream.
The place
The restaurant’s theme is contemporary Southern bar. Think exposed brick walls, spot lighting, and wooden panelling. The colour palette is red and brown. The place is big enough to have parties and large gatherings. There is an abundance of seating formats: booth, bar, small tables, and patio. When the pandemic clears up, this has great potential to be a buzzing joint.
Verdict
Top-notch fried chicken sandwich. Refreshing twist from other barbecue spots in Toronto. Spiciness shines through in many of their offerings. 8.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Uncle Ray’s
- Rating
- 8.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Lightning sandwich
Spicy baked beans - Prices
- Lightning sandwich: $13.50 ($11.95 excluding tax)
Chicken and ribs platter for one: $24.80 ($21.95 excluding tax) - Address
- 9 Church Street
- Hours
- Monday to Friday 1600h – 2130h
Saturday to Sunday 1130h – 2130h - Date of visit
- May 2020, June 2020