Stalwart of Greek pies in Toronto
When I think of Greektown in Toronto, I think of tourist traps. Sure, there are many Greek restaurants but they all have nearly the same souvlakis and grilled seafood. If I go there for Greek food, I usually end up at Athens Pastries. It stands out as one of the few specialists of Greek pastries. Perfect for a quick bite.
Athens Pastries has been in Greektown for over 40 years. They’ve become a neighbourhood fixture and admirably kept up with the times with renovations. Part of their success lies in having a small menu that it can perfect on. There are just 3 savoury options and 4 sweet ones. Hasn’t changed in years. Furthermore, their savoury options are really just variations of the same thing: filo pies. Go in the morning to get the widest selection.
The food
Their savoury pastries are spanokopita (σπανακόπιτα; spinach and feta cheese), tiropita (τυροπιτα; egg and feta cheese), and kreatopita (κρεατόπιτα; ground meat).
The top-seller has to be spanakopita. The layers of filos were crisp and flaked easily. The filling was just moist enough for a good mouthfeel without soaking the pastry. It was on the salty side from the feta cheese, but was not too overwhelming. The taste alternated between the two strong flavours of spinach and cheese. 8/10.
The tiropita was exactly the same, just with a different filling.
There was a higher proportion of feta cheese in this pie, which made it too salty for me. It became one-dimensional quickly without other herbs and supporting ingredients. But the golden flaky dough was as enjoyable as ever. The filling was set just enough and neither hard nor runny. 7.5/10.
The kreatopita was a welcome change from the other two feta cheese pies. The minced meat was mildly spiced. Like the tiropita, it got boring quickly because there were no fresh vegetables or other ingredients to jazz up the pie. Best enjoyed in small portions. I can’t fault it for authenticity though. 7.5/10.
I find Greek desserts sickly sweet, so I haven’t tried the full menu of sweet pastries. I can’t recommend the loukoumades (λουκουμάδες) even though they are authentic. These small doughnut balls drenched in sweet syrup are too rich for my tastes. 6.5/10.
Pro tip: Go during Taste of the Danforth in August if you want cheaper, smaller portions. They set up a stall just outside their cafe, with a smaller selection from their regular menu.
The place
The cafe is modestly sized and dominated by wood patterns. Surprisingly, there are no Greek memorabilia. It’s not a bad thing but the dull interior could really use some focal pieces like artwork or splashes of colour.
It’s more fun to eat outside. The small patio is great for people watching in Greektown.
Verdict
Traditional Greek pies done well. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Athens Pastries
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Spanakopita
- Prices (including tax)
- Spanakopita: $4.85
Tiropita: $4.85
Kreatopita: $4.85 - Address
- 509 Danforth Avenue (original branch)
- Hours
- Monday to Thursday 0900h – 2100h
Friday to Saturday 0900h – 2200h
Sunday 0900h – 2100h - Date of visit
- August 2020, January 2021