Savoury, smokey Nigerian grilled meats
Suyas are easily the most accessible Nigerian food. Unlike other traditional dishes like slimy cow foot soup (nkwobi) or mud-like amala (yam flour paste), barbecued meat is a crowd-pleaser. It’s no wonder that the majority of Nigerian restaurants in Toronto offer suya. The Suya Spot is one of the best places to sample this meaty delight.
Do you want your West African meats well-done or extra well-done?
In my travels to West Africa, I’ve sadly never had revelatory food experiences. Grilled meat is popular and goes by different names: suya in Nigeria, soya in Cameroon, and brochette in Niger. However, quality ranges from ho-hum to bad at most places. I’ve never been to Nigeria (I blame unreasonable visa fees), but my experiences in surrounding countries indicate a philosophy of overcooking meat. It could be for hygiene reasons or a local preference. But it does tend towards dry and tough proteins.
Suyas are no exception. Good suya places will grill them just under the verge of being overdone. Bad places will just give chewy or burnt meat. Suyas have a unique flavour profile compared to other meat-on-a-stick delicacies from around the world. It comes from the use of West African spices like uda (a type of pepper, also known as grains of Selim) and kuli kuli (deep-fried groundnut flour). I recommend trying them at least once to broaden your horizons.
The food
The Suya Spot’s menu is simple: goat, beef, chicken, or fish suya. They come in different serving sizes and there is the option of making it a combo with jollof rice. They also have daily specials that are not on the regular menu.
The beef suya was seasoned assertively, but not aggressively. I could taste the uda and the amount of salt was perfect. There were whiffs of char but no crispy bits. The texture was, as expected, like jerky but I was surprisingly ok with it. It helped that the beef was sliced into thin strips. Although it was chewy, it wasn’t rubbery. However, there was some gristle in some pieces. Raw red onions and cabbage gave the illusion of a healthy meal. It could have used some sort of dressing to make it a proper salad. 7.5/10.
It’s a better deal to get a suya meal. It’s expensive for what it is but is more satisfying since it comes with carbs. The meal includes jollof rice (rice cooked with tomato and pepper broth), sweet plantains, pepper sauce, raw cabbage and red onions, and a canned drink.
I got the goat suya meal. I liked that the goat meat was still attached to the bone for flavour. But the meat to bone ratio is lacking. It would be reasonable if there was bone marrow left to enjoy, but I was slightly disappointed by the large, empty bone pieces.
Regardless, the goat suya fared well in the taste department. It was not gamey. The spice mix was different from the beef suya. This one was less peppery but still enjoyable. Unsurprisingly, the meat was chewy but it was tolerable because of the bite sized portions. I preferred the beef suya. 7/10.
The accompanying pepper sauce was spicy but not as hot as Thai or habanero chillies. It was made from West African peppers and was reminiscent of Caribbean hot sauces. It lacked umami though.
The jollof rice was bland and oily. It could use more salt. I had to douse it with pepper sauce. At least the rice was cooked well—neither mushy nor tough. My search for good jollof rice in Toronto continues. 5.5/10.
Sweet plantains were classic: soft and caramelized. It’s best left for dessert. 7.5/10.
The place
The Suya Spot has two locations in Toronto but the Scarborough one seems to be better rated and is the only one I’ve been to. It’s a small store in a strip plaza in the outer limits of the city.
Aside from some wood patterning, there isn’t much ambience. The bright orange walls are a strain on the eyes. No big deal because seating space is limited and most of the business relies on takeout. It takes a while to grill suya on the spot, so call ahead or order online.
Verdict
Tasty suyas that aren’t overcooked. Slightly expensive. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- The Suya Spot
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Beef suya
- Prices
- Beef suya (small): $11.13 ($10.00 excluding tax)
Goat suya combo: $18.08 ($16.00 excluding tax) - Address
- 269 Morningside Avenue
- Hours
- Monday to Thursday 1400h – 2200h
Friday to Sunday 1400h – 0100h - Date of visit
- August 2020, October 2020