The one to beat for Afghan cuisine in Toronto
Bamiyan Kabob is one of those rare places that uphold tradition, cater to the masses, and punch well above their weight for culinary skill. Pretty impressive for a casual Afghan fast-food restaurant. Although new competitors like Kabob Guys and Bread & Salt are nipping at its heels, it still manages to have the best price-quality ratio in Toronto.
There are branches around the region but I can only vouch for the original location at Thorncliffe Park. I haven’t been to any of the others.
The food
As with other Afghan restaurants, kabobs are the main offering. But don’t miss out on their side menu, which features uncommon dishes. They used to offer mantu (meat dumplings drenched in sauce) but for some reason they took it off the menu when I visited this year. Perhaps it’s too labour-intensive to make.
I highly recommend boulagnee (پارکی; also spelled bolani). It’s a stuffed pancake with mashed potato and herbs. Sounds simple, but the aroma was intoxicating. The dough was moderately thin and toasted expertly with brown splotches.
Every bite was savoury. Addictive almost, because of the peppers, toasted onions, and coriander bits. I was surprised by the hefty portion for the price I paid. It could be a meal on its own. 8.5/10.
The wraps are great for trying out different kabobs before committing to the size and cost of the dinner sets. I chose the barg kabob wrap (برګ کباب). It’s a kabob made up of large cubes of filet mignon. The wrap didn’t look pretty, but it was massive and filling.
The meat was cooked medium-well to well-done. Mild char. There were only a few spices but they made their presence felt. I appreciated that the wrap was not drowning in mayo and sauces like those from other fast-food restaurants. The flatbread was thin but otherwise not memorable. 7.5/10.
Bamiyan Kabob’s dinners are for really hungry people or for sharing between two small eaters. There is a larger selection of kabobs compared to the wraps. The other difference is the mountain of starches that comes with it: one freshly-baked naan and a heap of palaw (پلاو; rice cooked in stock). There’s also more salad and a mild red sauce to go with the kabobs.
A specialty of the Khyber region (east Afghanistan and northwest Pakistan) is chaplee kabob (چپلي کباب). Think of it as a grilled burger patty with Afghan spices and less fat.
Perhaps it was an off-day but my chaplee kabob was on the dry side. However, it wasn’t burnt even though it looked unappealingly dark. Flavours were pretty straightforward: coriander, cumin, and some pepper. I wished there was more sauce to add a different dimension. More fat and moisture would have helped too. 7/10.
It’s hard to beat freshly-baked bread. The bread was salted to the right degree and had a lovely brown exterior. Crispy edges and a moderately dense crumb provided good chew. I was happy to eat the plain naan on its own. It doesn’t hold up well after a few hours, so be sure to eat it quickly. 8/10.
The rice was also yummy. The grains were al dente and coated with a thin layer of fat. Like the chaplee kabob, there were only a few spices but they were strong. I could taste cloves and cumin. 8/10.
The salad was forgettable. 4/10.
The red sauce was like pico de gallo. Lots of tomato with some citrus accents. I would have liked it to be spicier and less watered-down. 7/10.
The place
The set-up is like a fast food restaurant. There’s an illuminated menu at the back of the counter, inoffensive furnishings, and plastic cutlery.
I visited when there were indoor dining restrictions because of COVID-19. Even though the chairs were cleared, there wasn’t a lot of space for many people to queue inside. It’s a modestly-sized restaurant.
Framed pictures of Afghan landscapes punctuate the wall. And there’s that famous portrait from Time Magazine.
Verdict
Traditional Afghan comfort food prepared superbly. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Bamiyan Kabob
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Boulagnee
Rice and naan from any of their dinners - Prices
- Boulagnee: $7.90 ($6.99 excluding tax)
Barg kabob wrap: $9.59 ($8.49 excluding tax)
Chaplee kabob dinner: $12.98 ($11.49 excluding tax) - Address
- 62 Overlea Boulevard, Unit 3A
- Hours
- Monday to Saturday 1100h – 2300h
Sunday 1200h – 2200h - Date of visit
- February 2021, May 2021