Competent crowd pleasers with a contemporary Israeli flair
I’ve passed by Cafe Landwer over a hundred times but have never tried it until last year. Before COVID-19, it was rather popular but cafe fare like salads, sandwiches, and hummus didn’t seem that interesting to me. The pandemic provided the opportunity for me to give it a shot during one of my downtown strolls. And it exceeded my expectations. 10% off online orders helped too.
Cafe Landwer is an chain cafe from Israel. The downtown branch is the second in Canada, opened a year after the first one in Vaughan. Its international presence is tiny compared to its home base at Israel. Cafe Landwer only started expanding overseas in 2017 starting with Canada then USA. If its popularity is any indication, they are set to grow rapidly.
The food
The menu is an eclectic mix of Israeli foods like sabich (fried eggplant) and hummus, and European cafe standards like pasta and sandwiches. Cafe Landwer finds a way to jazz up traditional dishes and put their own spin on classics. Their sabich, for example, is served as a salad bowl instead of in a pita. Components are plated neatly instead of being squashed into an indiscernible mess. Bits of fried pita and a poached egg makes it brunch-worthy.
Cafe Landwer’s signature dishes are easy to discover. Shockingly, it’s in the section called “Landwer’s Signatures” at the top of their menu. It’s a good place to start for newcomers.
Landwer’s famous schnitzel is a competent schnitzel. Even in takeout, the presentation was pleasing. The takeout containers were colourfully illustrated and their branding was unmistakable.
The schnitzel was medium-thin and came with a lemon wedge to cut through the fat. I didn’t need the citrus. The schnitzel was seasoned well as was the breading. It was a classically prepared Israeli schnitzel. The Israeli part comes with the choice of protein: chicken breast instead of pork or veal. 8/10.
The schnitzel came with a choice of carbs. I chose Landwer’s Rice. It was actually the star of the dish. It sounded simple: rice with carrot shreds, caramelized onion, silvered almonds, and parsley. But the aroma was off the charts, thanks to the onions and carrots. As good as the schnitzel was, I would happily skip it and just have the rice. 8.5/10.
Sinia kebab (סינייה קבב) is a signature creation by Cafe Landwer. It’s a massive flatbread topped with rich goodies like tahini, chickpeas, roasted eggplants and beef kebabs. The description said it was a focaccia but what I got was a pita. It’s way too thin, charred, and dry to be a focaccia. The pita was blistered nicely but it was a tad dry and tough, perhaps from sitting in the takeout box.
I had no complaints about the toppings. It was a roasted vegetable adventure with tomatoes, red onions, and large chunks of eggplants. They had burnt splotches on the outside and were juicy on the inside. Chickpeas accentuated the tahini’s texture and chopped parsley added refreshing bitterness. The mini kebabs were spiced and grilled well but had trouble standing out over the other components.
Chopped salad was included in the dish. It was remarkably simple: a base of cucumbers, followed by a layer of tomatoes, and finished with parsley. A bowl of lemon mint dressing sat on top. It tasted exactly as it sounds. Unlike side salads at lesser restaurants, all the ingredients were fresh and treated with care. Overall, I would give the Sinia kebab another shot when dine-in services resume. 8/10.
Cafe Landwer has a couple of hummus variations. Chicken shawarma hummus is advertised as their signature, so I had to give it a try. As usual, the dish was plated with care, with every component visible.
The chicken shawarma was delightfully fatty and had a savoury spice rub. No overcooked and dry pieces. The hummus was smooth but didn’t blow me away. To be honest, I haven’t found an amazing hummus in Toronto and I’ve been to many specialists. The whole chickpeas were all right but could be more plump. The amount of parsley, ground cumin, and paprika were just enough to add complexity without overpowering the hummus. The shawarma and hummus were good on their own but didn’t meld together. 7.5/10.
The hummus came with Landwer’s Moroccan pita, which didn’t look like the Moroccan pita I imagined it to be (batbout). It was a fist-sized doughnut.
Perhaps it was an off-day but the smell of yeast was overpowering but somehow the bread was still dense. I did like the crisp golden exterior. 6/10.
The place
The interior looks like a fancy 1920s diner. It’s a versatile space for a business lunch, family meal, date, or foodie hangout. They have a moderately-sized outdoor seating area. During pandemic patio season, it expands far beyond their storefront.
Verdict
Well-executed and slightly elevated Israeli cafe food. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Cafe Landwer
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Landwer rice
Sinia kebab - Prices
- Landwer schnitzel with Landwer rice: $21.46 ($18.99 excluding tax)
Sinia kebab: $21.46 ($18.99 excluding tax)
Chicken shawarma kebab: $18.07 ($15.99 excluding tax) - Address
- 165 University Avenue
- Hours
- Daily 0900h – 2000h
- Date of visit
- September 2020, December 2020, March 2021