Malaysian-inspired baos and rice bowls
Makan stands out as the only Malaysian restaurant in downtown Toronto. Ok, it’s Malaysian-inspired rather than actual Malaysian. The only recognizably traditional dishes are their nasi lemak (coconut rice), rendang (dry coconut curry), and chicken curry. Still, it is a welcome change from the usual chain restaurant and food court fare. The food is above average and well-priced to boot.
The food
The menu can be summarized as (1) stuff on baos or rice and (2) tater tots. Tater tots are an oddball for the restaurant’s concept. I didn’t try them for this review. I would have preferred Malaysian sides like begedil (croquettes), curry puffs (curry pastries), or rojak (savoury fruit salad).
My favourite has to be the nasi lemak. It literally means “fatty rice” in Malay. The fat comes from the coconut milk used to cook the rice. That’s why it’s so good.
I wasn’t expecting much from a fusion restaurant, but the coconut rice was surprisingly legit, down to the banana leaf used to serve the dish. The usual accompaniments were there: hard-boiled egg, cucumber slices, peanuts, and sambal (chilli sauce). The only thing missing was ikan bilis (deep-fried anchovies). Other minor nits for authenticity were that the peanuts should have retained their outer skin. The sambal should be a paste-like consistency and not liquid like a chutney. Customers can choose their protein—but none of them are traditionally paired with nasi lemak.
However, these are small quibbles and I felt that Makan did a decent job in conveying the essence of nasi lemak. The sambal was equal parts tangy and mildly spicy; not a conventional flavour profile but it goes well with the rest of the dish. The yolk of the egg was just set. I chose satay chicken (barbecued meat skewer) as my protein and was quite satisfied with it. The marinade was spot on, with the fragrance of lemongrass, turmeric, and coriander. It would have been perfect if it was grilled over a charcoal fire with some crisp edges. I am so happy that I don’t have to go to Scarborough or Mississauga for nasi lemak. 7.5/10.
The baos (steamed buns) are a nod to the food trend in North America and Europe. The bao sandwich format is not common in Malaysia, so it’s best to judge Makan’s interpretations as unique creations in their own right. Basically, it’s their standard proteins between baos, like a slider.
The Big Bird bao reminded me of Taiwanese fried chicken. Crispy batter, marinated with salt and pepper. The spicy mayo didn’t have much taste but it added a nice yellow hue. The combination of ingredients were simple and thoughtful. 7/10.
I liked the Notorious P.I.G. better. Braised pork belly with pickled vegetables is a common dish in Malaysian-Chinese restaurants, brought over by Hakka immigrants from China. This was a snack-sized format of the comfort food. The sweet peanut crumble made from coarsely ground nuts were an intriguing addition. It’s a common Southeast Asian ingredient but it’s the first time I’ve seen it with braised pork.
The pork belly was braised well. It was moist, tender, and had an alluring soy glaze. There was a satisfying balance between the savoury meat, salty and funky pickled Chinese vegetables, and the sweet and earthy peanut crumbs. 7.5/10.
The beef rendang bao definitely tasted like rendang. Redolent of lemongrass and galangal, with a slight whiff of coconut. Unfortunately, the meat was on the dry side. It could have benefited from more gravy, fat, and slow-cooking. Personally, I prefer rendang with more gravy. 7/10.
The sole vegan bao is the Filet Not Fish bao. Nowadays, every downtown restaurant has to offer a vegan option to cater to the preferences of urbanites. This bao features a slab of battered tofu and coleslaw. It looks superficially like the fish burger from a fast food chain that starts with M. I can understand why Makan chose a firm tofu as it is easier to handle and simulates meat texture better. It would have been a better contrast of textures if they had used a softer tofu with a crunchy batter. An egg tofu would be a more flavourful option for lacto-ovo vegetarians.
Disappointingly, the tofu wasn’t drained well after frying, leading to a pool of oil as the bao sat in the takeout container. The batter also lost its crispiness. Perhaps they should take a leaf from fried chicken sandwiches and used more breading, seasoning, and flash fry at very high temperatures. On the plus side, the natural tofu flavour came through, which is rare for tofu dishes at hip restaurants. However, the coleslaw didn’t have much flavour. The bao was in need of a punchy sauce or dressing. 5.5 /10.
My favourite of the baos was the chicken curry bao. Because the bao is deep-fried. I’ve come across deep-fried baos in Malaysia and Singapore but haven’t seen this in Toronto before. They are great for dipping into and soaking up curries. The bao was crisp and browned nicely. But points off for leaving a film of oil on the bao. The curry used a traditional Malaysian spice mix and even had curry leaves in it. This type of curry is coconut milk-based and usually has a small amount of belacan (fermented shrimp paste) that gives it a distinct umami. Chilli levels vary. The one at Makan wasn’t spicy at all. As for the boneless chicken pieces, they were ok. The curry itself was the standout. 7.5/10.
The place
By some stroke of bad luck, Makan opened in April 2020 when the pandemic was just getting started. Its dining space hasn’t seen much use. The furnishings are simple and contemporary, like a hip school cafeteria. No doubt students from nearby OCAD will find this a great lunch spot.
The open kitchen is visible behind the counter.
Verdict
Makan puts its own spin on Malaysian food. And it works for an enjoyable fast food meal. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Makan
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Nasi lemak
Notorious P.I.G.
Chicken curry with fried bao - Prices (including tax)
- Nasi lemak with satay chicken: $11.29
Big Bird bao: $6.77
Notorious P.I.G. bao: $6.77
Beef rendang bao: $7.33
Filet Not Fish bao: $5.64
Chicken curry with fried bao: $6.77 - Address
- 265 Queen Street West
- Hours
- Monday to Thursday 1000h – 2100h
Friday to Saturday 1100h – 2200h - Date of visit
- December 2020, April 2021