Copacabana (downtown)

All-you-can-eat meat in a cheesy rodízio

Copacabana is one of the few places in Toronto to experience a Brazilian churrascaria, rodízio style. A churrascaria is a grilled meat restaurant while rodízio means all-you-can-eat. In Brazil, such restaurants typically have waiters going around tables with different cuts of meats on a skewer. The meat is carved tableside. Outside of Brazil, this sort of restaurant is simply known as rodizio, or a Brazilian steakhouse.

Copacabana is the longest-running rodízio in the Toronto region. However, this branch is not the oldest. It’s the most convenient though, right in downtown Toronto.

Lower floor dining area of Copacabana
Dining area, lower floor

How to eat at a rodízio

The typical rodízio has a buffet where you pick up vegetables, appetizers, and desserts. But that’s not what diners are there for. Waiters roam around the restaurant, brandishing skewers of barbecued meats. Diners use a mechanism on the table to get the waiters’ attention. At Copacabana, this mechanism is a disc. Flip to the blue side “Sim” (Yes) to indicate you want more meat. Flip to the red side “Não” (No) to stop the flow of meat.

Copacabana appetizers
Top right: disc used to indicate whether the diner wants more meat.
Appetizers clockwise from left: cheese bread, roasted brussels sprouts, farofa (toasted cassava flour), feijoada (bean stew), roasted zucchini.

Copacabana also provides each diner with a small tong to grab slivers of meat as they are carved in front of them.

Special orders can be made on request, especially for more expensive items or items that take longer to prepare. The hostess at Copacabana frequently moves around the restaurant and asks diners which items they would like to have. This is a good idea as it reduces food wastage.

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Taste of Guang Xi (downtown)

Snail noodle soup and fermented snake beans. Yum.

Guangxi (广西) is a relatively poor province in China and is known more for its scenery than its food. The cuisine is really peasant food. There are a handful of specialties in the big cities but there are no regional dishes. Perhaps that’s why there are so few Guangxi restaurants, even within China.

Toronto is blessed to have a Guangxi restaurant that offers the representative noodle dishes of the province. Taste of Guang Xi started at First Markham Place and opened a branch in downtown Chinatown a few months ago. I stopped by the downtown branch for this review.

Taste of Guang Xi exterior
Taste of Guang Xi (downtown)

The most popular dish here is luo si fen (螺蛳粉; river snail rice noodle). This noodle soup dish hails from the city of Liuzhou (柳州). It’s rare to find a fresh version outside of Guangxi and most Chinese consume the pre-packaged version. There is no visible snail meat but rest assured that there are snails. Entire snails are simmered in the broth until the meat disintegrates and the shell remains are left in the pot. You can’t really taste the snails anyway with all the spices.

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Al’deewan Bakery

The ultimate Lebanese manakeesh

This bakery has two things going for it: the ridiculously good manakeesh and the ridiculously low prices.

Interior of Al'deewan Bakery
Interior of Al’deewan Bakery. A giant brick oven can be seen behind the main counter.

Manakeesh (مناقيش) is a round, Middle Eastern flatbread with toppings. It goes by slightly different spellings because there is no standard transliteration for Arabic. The classic topping is za’atar, a mixture of dried thyme and oregano, brushed with olive oil. At Al’deewan, you can find this and a respectable range of toppings.

Al'deewan menu
Manakeesh menu

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Estonian House Cafe

Simple pirukad in a hidden cafe

Nestled in the depths of Estonian House is this tiny cafe. It mainly serves the Estonian community and is not advertised anywhere, not even on its website nor in the building. Regardless, everyone is welcome. It is the only place in Toronto to get fresh Estonian foods.

Exterior of Estonian House Cafe
Estonian House
Estonian House logo
Estonian House logo

Estonian cuisine is not very distinct. It is a cross between Russian, Swedish, and Polish food. From Russia and Poland, the heavy use of beets. From Sweden and Finland, lingonberry jam and smoked fish. From Poland, sausages and sauerkraut.

This place only offers breads and small snacks. When I visited, it was a week before Christmas and they were taking Christmas orders. The cafe was just a small takeout counter. There were only a couple of customers, all Estonians except for me.

Counter of Estonian House Cafe
Cafe counter. Jars of smoked herring, beet salad, and potato salad on display. Mural of Tallinn old city on the right.

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Ma Yvé Grill

Hearty, home-cooked Congolese food

There really is a Yvé at Ma Yvé Grill. Yvette is the larger-than-life owner and chef at this modest restaurant. She will happily chat with customers and give recommendations to those that are new to the cuisine. The pride in her cooking is obvious. Plaques and photos of famous customers adorn the walls. Most notably, from Raptors player Serge Ibaka.

Exterior of Ma Yvé Grill
Ma Yvé Grill
Cafe seating, overlooking into kitchen window and adjoining dining room
Cafe seating, overlooking into kitchen window and adjoining dining room

Congolese cuisine is simple and similar to West African foods. Lots of starches, stews, and grilled meats. This is the only Congolese restaurant in the Greater Toronto Area. Montreal has more, since it is francophone like Congo and hence attracts more Congolese.

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Premium Sweets

Scrumptious, upscale Bangladeshi at mid-range prices

Bangladeshi restaurants are far outnumbered by North Indian restaurants in Toronto. The food they serve has distinct differences, like the use of mustard oil in lots of fish and rice dishes. The other standout are the sweets, called mishti (মিষ্টি) in Bengali. Bangladesh is part of the Bengal region and shares the same cuisine as West Bengal in India.

Premium Sweets is rare in its category: a mid-range Bangladeshi restaurant with upscale ambience. Other Bengali places in the city cater to the budget crowd. Don’t let its name fool you. Although its premium sweets are definitely a highlight, they are also a full-service restaurant. They started out in Mississauga and opened a second branch in Scarborough in 2017. It’s close to the Golden Mile, so it is a good spot to eat after outlet shopping.

Exterior of Premium Sweets
Premium Sweets
Premium Sweets interior
Interior of Premium Sweets. Second floor seating overlooks the ground level dining area.

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Gandhi Cuisine

This restaurant closed on 30 June 2020. Thanks for the memories!

Pioneers of East Indian roti and still the best

Gandhi is one of the first restaurants to serve East Indian roti in Toronto (and also the world). The East Indian roti might even have been invented here in the 1990s.

From India to the Caribbean to India to Toronto

A bit of terminology. East India refers to India, the country, as opposed to the West Indies in the Caribbean. Roti is a generic Indian term for bread but here it refers to the version in Trinidad, Guyana, and the windward islands. The life of a roti starts with a bread dough made up of maida (wheat flour). Then, ground dhal (split peas) are filled in the dough and the dough is rolled out to a thin disc. The result is a flatbread with a layer of dhal crumbs sandwiched in the middle. The semi-hard dhal doesn’t add much flavour but it provides textural contrast to the soft bread. This flatbread is known as dhalpuri roti and is a Trinidadian creation.

When people talk about West Indian roti, they usually mean a meal involving the flatbread and not the flatbread itself. Take a dhalpuri roti, put your choice of curry, meat, potatoes, and vegetables in the middle, and then fold it up into a rectangular parcel. Lightly toast it on a tawa (hotplate) and you get a West Indian roti. The fillings are usually Caribbean entrées like chicken curry and goat curry.

Gandhi takes the concept of a West Indian roti and uses traditional Indian fillings. The most popular filling here is butter chicken but you can also find other North Indian curries like jalfrezi, vindaloo, and korma. Another departure from the West Indian roti is that they use a chapati instead of a dhalpuri roti. It’s mostly the same thing except the chapati doesn’t have dhal and is much thinner.

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