Giant Iranian breads and the best Napoleon cakes in Toronto
One of my favourite memories of Iran is the morning buzz at bakeries, churning out piles of barbari and the customers that lug these unwieldy breads. I am fortunate to be able to re-live that memory in Toronto, albeit in more sterile conditions.
There are only a couple of Iranian bakeries in Toronto. Garni Bakery is the best place for barbari (نان بربری). Barbari is a giant wheat flour bread measuring about 70 cm by 30 cm, with sesame seeds sprinkled on top. The dough has large and uneven air pockets like Italian focaccia, which gives it its pillowy texture. The other place I know that makes this is Khorak Supermarket.
It might surprise most that European pastries are quite popular in Tehran. Naturally, Garni Bakery has those too. In fact, they don’t make any traditional Iranian shirini (sweet confections).
The food
First off, their specialty. The barbari is one of the best breads of any kind in Toronto. The large heft hides how airy it is. Crust is thin and crisp. What distinguishes a good bread from a great bread is the balance of salt. Garni Bakery has got it spot on. The salt whets the appetite and the aroma of toasted sesame compels you to keep eating. I actually ate a third of the loaf without realizing it. Get it on the day it is baked for the best quality. Even a few days later, it’s not bad as toast.
Their other top seller is the Napoleon cake. This was invented in Russia and a variation of the French mille-feuille. It consists of layers of thin pastry sheets alternating with custard. Somehow, the pastry remained crisp despite being smothered by cream. The vanilla custard was medium consistency and not too sweet, providing the perfect foil for the pastry. It was also a good size for its price (I’m looking at you, macarons). Napoleon cakes can be found at Russian bakeries around Toronto but this has the best quality/price balance.
The place
Garni Bakery has two locations: a consumer-friendly one in Richmond Hill and their factory outlet at an industrial area in North York. Of course, you should go to their factory outlet for the largest variety. The factory supplies the Richmond Hill store.
The retail unit attached to the factory is small. It has a few shelves of items and a pastry showcase. There are some Iranian imported foods, but you are really here for the baked goods.
Verdict
The barbari here is one of the best breads in Toronto, beating French, Italian, and other bakeries. Napoleon is flaky and decadent. 8.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Garni Bakery
- Rating
- 8.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Barbari
Napoleon - Prices
- Barbari: $2.50
Napoleon: $3.00 - Address
- 451 McNicoll Avenue
- Hours
- Monday to Friday 0900h – 1800h
Saturday 0900h – 1700h - Date of visit
- January 2020