Where Nicaraguan staples are better than most in Nicaragua
If there were more places like La Bella Managua in Nicaragua, that country would be a foodie destination. My food experiences in Nicaragua aren’t memorable. Everyday food tends to be fast food quality. My triangle rule for restaurants is price, quality, quantity—pick two. Few restaurants excel in all three aspects. Unfortunately, for many developing countries, the market is skewed towards cheap, filling meals.
The first time I tried La Bella Managua, I wasn’t expecting much. The menu reads like a standard Central American list of staples like gallo pinto (rice and beans), fried plantains, grilled steak, and fried fish. I was pleasantly surprised that they managed to make these pedestrian dishes taste so good. It’s not fancy ingredients nor photogenic presentation. Just good old chef techniques.
The food
Let’s start off with what is probably the most popular vegetarian dish, yuca mixta. It looked as described: fried chunks of yuca (cassava) and fried cheese. It was all yellow and brown, sorely lacking vibrant colours. In dine-in conditions, that colour would have come from the avocado salad but that is now packed separately for takeout.
Looks can be deceiving though. The yuca was semi-soft and lightly crisped. The fried cheese added some gooey texture. By themselves, they would have been too heavy but that’s what the salsa was for. It was hyper-tangy, with lots of vinegar and white onion. Too strong on its own, it was the perfect antithesis for the fried foods. Sour cream was also provided but I didn’t need it. It would have made the dish too rich. 8/10.
The accompanying avocado salad had the right amount of dressing. I was happy that they did not skimp on the avocado. A small amount of lime juice and a pinch of salt was all that was needed to complete this salad of tomatoes, red onions, and lettuce. 7.5/10.
The carne asada (grilled beef) followed the same pattern as the yuca mixta. It looked ordinary but tasted great.
The beef had pretty grill marks and was medium-well…actually closer to well-done. Fortunately, because it was sliced thin, it wasn’t too chewy. It was seasoned simply with salt. It was a textbook carne asada. 8/10.
The fried plantain chips were also tasty in their simplicity. They were long, thin, and mildly flavoured. It made for a hearty dinner with the gallo pinto. While not the best rice and beans in Toronto, it had better seasoning than most. The rice grains and beans maintained their integrity. 8/10.
The carne asada came with a cabbage salad and the same vinegary salsa as the yuca mixta. It felt like a throwaway salad. It was just raw julienned cabbage and carrots. Some cooking, additional ingredients, or a dressing to meld everything together would have helped. 5/10.
La Bella Managua also has the national dish, vigorón. They call it cerdo con yuca (pork with yuca) and that is literally what it is. It’s fried pork chunks sitting on top of boiled yuca. Curtido (pickled cabbage slaw) tops off the dish. The version a La Bella Managua was legit and similar to the ones I’ve tried in Nicaragua. The pork was on the tough side but seasoned well. It would have been better if they added chicharrón (pork crackling). 8/10.
For pandemic takeout, they’ve put their desserts and beverages up front. I didn’t try them because I am not much of a dessert person.
The place
La Bella Managua is a cozy family-run restaurant for families. Its interior is decorated simply.
One side of the restaurant displays factual tidbits like a map and a portrait.
While the other side contains whimsical Nicaraguan crafts depicting life by the sea.
Verdict
Nicaraguan classics done adeptly. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- La Bella Managua
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Cerdo con yucca (vigorón)
Carne asada - Prices
- Yuca mixta: $15.76 ($13.95 excluding tax)
Carne asada with green fried plantains: $18.64 ($16.50 excluding tax)
Cerdo con yucca: $18.02 ($15.95 excluding tax) - Address
- 872 Bloor Street West
- Hours
- Tuesday to Thursday 1200h – 2030h
Friday 1200h – 2130h
Saturday 1100h – 2130h
Sunday 1200h – 2030h - Date of visit
- February 2021