Jamaican hideaway with satisfying plates
I judge a Jamaican restaurant by the carbs they offer. By carbs, I don’t mean nutritional content. I am talking about the starches that are the foundation of each meal. Run-of-the-mill spots will offer just rice and peas, plantains, and if you are lucky, dumplings (fried or boiled lumps of dough). Nicey’s Eatery does well in this regard and offers a large range of Jamaican carbs: festivals, bammies, coco breads, and even hardo bread.
In fact, the menu has all the Jamaican hits from well-known jerk chicken to lesser-known cow’s foot (certain days only). It’s not comprehensive but it gives one a good sample of the cuisine. Prices are similar to downtown Jamaican takeouts, which is surprising given its location in a remote suburb. The good news is that quality is above average for this price category.
The food
The most popular dish here is, no surprise, jerk chicken. It is one of the better ones in the city. It’s moist and not drenched in liquid. There is slight smoke, has the right balance of salt, and the allspice isn’t overwhelming. Sure, it’s not grilled in a drum barrel with pimento wood, but it’s tasty.
Coleslaw had moderate crunch but the seasoning was too basic for my liking. Rice and peas were ordinary — meaning bland. I have yet to come across a Caribbean restaurant with rice and peas that were delicious enough to eat on its own.
The unusual standout were the pickled onions. It’s the first time I’ve seen these in a jerk chicken dinner, but it worked perfectly to cut through the fatty meat and heaviness of the rice. It really lifted the whole dish up.
The regular portion looks deceptively small but is enough for a quick lunch.
The place
Nicey’s is located at the northeastern edge of Toronto. Although it is technically part of a strip mall, it is isolated in its own hideaway on the opposite end of the parking lot. Surrounded by greenery on one side, you can imagine you are by the countryside if you squint enough. The interior is homey.
Verdict
Traditional recipes with small twists. Cozy interior. Slightly higher than average prices. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Nicey’s Eatery
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Jerk chicken
- Prices (after tax)
- Jerk chicken meal (regular/large): $10.34/$14.58
Oxtail meal (regular/large): $15.09/$20.06
Ackee & saltfish meal (regular/large): $15.09/$20.06
Beef patty: $1.98
Bammy: $2.71 - Address
- 2290 Markham Rd
- Hours
- Monday to Friday, Sunday 1100h – 2300h
Saturday 1000h – 2300h - Date of visit
- November 2019