This restaurant closed on 30 April 2022 and will be moving to a new location. Thanks for the memories!
21-days aged sushi in Toronto, edomae style
Sushi Nishinokaze is the latest darling in the omakase space. It opened in late 2021 and is one of three restaurants specializing in edomae sushi. If you’re wondering, the other two are Shoushin and Sushi Masaki Saito. Nishinokaze is also the cheapest at $169.50, compared to $316.40 and $680.00 respectively. Lots of Japanese air-flown imports and the intricacies of fish curing push up the price.
The 19th-century ancestor of contemporary sushi
Edomae (江戸前) literally means “in front of Edo”. Edo is understood to refer to the castle in Edo, now modern-day Tokyo. Edo is also the name of the imperial period from 1603 to 1867 before Japan opened up to the world and brought about industrialization, political reform, and World War II, among other things.
The sushi from the Edo period was quite different from that of today. Because of the lack of refrigeration, fresh fish sushi was rare. Chefs had to think of ways to preserve fish like curing in soy sauce, salt, or vinegar. To put it in a nice way, fish could be “aged” anywhere between a few days to a few weeks. There’s less moisture and the protein gets more mushy from enzymatic action.
Edomae sushi is slowly gaining awareness in North America. Mainly in top-end omakase restaurants going for hundreds of dollars. Such an irony considering that edomae sushi was originally fast-food for peasants. I guess it can be justified because there’s more chef work compared to regular sushi.
For example, one defining characteristic of edomae sushi is the red vinegar (赤酢; akasu) used to prepare the rice (酢飯; shari). It gives the rice a brown hue. This vinegar is more expensive to procure and the taste is more complex than the white rice vinegar used in regular sushi. If you arrive early like I did, you can watch the chef make the finishing touches to the giant tub of rice.
The food
There is only one option: $169.50 omakase. And there is only one chef.
1. Kue sashimi
From Yamaguchi. Kue (クエ; longtooth grouper) is an expensive fish even in Japan. The first course set the tone of what to expect for edomae sushi. Unlike fresh sashimi, the fish was mushy after aging for 7 days. It was delicate and mellow. A pinch of shio (salt) was supposed to bring out the flavours but I didn’t taste any difference. It was way too subtle. The accompanying shiso leaf and wasabi had more flavours. 6.5/10.
2. Kegani and tomalley
From Hokkaido. Tomalley refers to the digestive glands and other squishy parts of the kegani (毛ガニ; hairy crab). The dish was surprisingly mild considering that tomalley was supposed to give a concentrated crab flavour. I liked the brininess but unfortunately I found a small piece of shell. It was served at room temperature. It might be better off cold or warm. 6/10.
3. Ikura in yuzu soy sauce
From Hokkaido. The ikura (イクラ; salmon eggs) was one of my favourites of the night. Yuzu zest and soy sauce is such a classic savoury combination. Each bite of the roe gave a juicy pop, complemented by the perfect amount of sauce. 9/10.
4. Kinmedai
From Chiba. The kinmedai (金目鯛; golden-eye snapper) was aged for 5 days and marinated in kombu (kelp) for 2 hours. It was finished with a brush of soy sauce. The end result was funky and vinegary. 7/10.
5. Kouika
From Chiba. Kouika (甲烏賊; cuttlefish) has a nuttier taste compared to the more common ika (squid) seen at regular restaurants. Here, it was enhanced with a kiss of lime and Okinawa sea salt. I liked the chewiness and the light, savoury taste. 8/10.
6. Kanburi
From Toyama. The kanburi (寒ブリ; winter yellowtail) was aged for 21 days. It resulted in a complex flavour and soft fish. I found the soy sauce a little overbearing as it masked the intricate taste of the protein. 7.5/10.
7. Bluefin tuna chutoro
From Prince Edward Island. The chutoro (中とろ; medium-fatty tuna) was aged for 2 weeks. As with all aged fish in this dinner, it retained its integrity when picked up but was mushy when I bit in. Since it had fat, it was creamy. Again, I preferred less soy sauce. 7.5/10.
8. Bluefin tuna otoro
The otoro (大とろ; fatty tuna) was cut from the same fish as the chutoro. It was the same as the chutoro, only a bit creamier and had sinewy bits. 7/10.
9. Kohada
From Saga. Kohada (コハダ; small gizzard shad) is a strong-tasting fish like mackerel or sardine. It’s a mainstay of edomae sushi restaurants. I enjoyed its assertive and salty flavour. Its silver skin was also attractive. 8.5/10.
10. Kuruma ebi
From Kumamoto. Kuruma ebi (車海老; Japanese tiger shrimp) is the top shrimp of the edomae sushi world. The version here was perfectly cooked. Its orange-red stripes were visually arresting. It was like eating sweet, shrimp essence. 8.5/10.
11. Uni
From Russia. The uni (うに; sea urchin) was served ice-cold, and lots of it. Unlike other uni I’ve had, this one had the taste of the ocean without the fishiness. The custard texture contrasted with the crisp Maruyama nori (seaweed). The nori itself deserves special mention as it was the best I’ve ever had. Super crisp, pure, fragrant, and umami. It’s also used in top Tokyo restaurants like Sukiyabashi Jiro. 9/10.
12. Otoro temaki
The same otoro from earlier was used to make a temaki (手巻き; hand-rolled) sushi. It was simply constructed. There were some Japanese chives but overall, it was lightly seasoned so that the fish could stand out.
I’m in the minority that prefers chutoro and akami (lean tuna) over otoro. My favourite part of this temaki was actually the crisp nori. I couldn’t get enough of it. 7.5/10.
13. Anago
From Nagasaki. The anago (アナゴ; saltwater eel) was smeared with soy sauce and wasabi like the other edomae sushi. I was expecting a tare (thick, sweet soy sauce) used in contemporary unagi (ウナギ; freshwater eel) preparations. The edomae version lacks punch. It was a mush of eel. The small bones also detracted from the texture. I definitely preferred the modern-day preparation over this. 6.5/10.
14. Dashi
The dashi (出汁; stock) was served in an elegant bowl. By the way, the same could be said about all the tableware and interior decor.
The vessel was well-suited to showcase how clear the dashi was. If not for the spring onions, you probably wouldn’t even know that the bowl had soup. The dashi was made from katsuo (カツオ; skipjack tuna) and small anchovies. The deep katsuo flavour was comforting. 8.5/10.
15. Kanpyo
From Tochigi. Kanpyo (干瓢; dried calabash gourd) is another classic edomae sushi. Its sweetness was like inari age (いなりあげ; sweet, fried tofu skins). It ate like a chewy pickle. The soft nori completed this homey food. 8/10.
16. Tamago
The deceptively simple tamago (卵焼き; omelette) was made up of bunch of ingredients including Kyoto miso, sweet potato, and shrimp. In an eco- and wallet-friendly twist, the eggs were local. Really, there’s no need to import eggs from Japan. This ate like a light shrimp cake. It had a creamy centre, with an aftertaste of shrimp. 8/10.
17. Kinako ice cream
The kinako (きな粉; roasted soybean powder) ice cream was made in-house. The kinako and milk was from Japan. It was creamy, nutty, and almost savoury. 8/10.
The ice cream flavour changes seasonally. It was yuzu in the summer.
Supporting elements
The shari melts in the background and never draws attention. A good supporting base is noticeable only by its absence. The rice had red vinegar but not so much to be stained brown. 8/10.
The freshly-grated wasabi was the most enjoyable I’ve had so far in Toronto. It was nutty, creamy, and good enough to eat on its own. 8.5/10.
The pickled ginger was from Niagara Falls. It was soaked in sugar and mirin (rice wine). It was all right. I didn’t have to reach out for it. 7/10.
Nishinokaze has a modest sake selection ranging from cheap to astronomical.
The place
This is the most gorgeous interior for omakase in Toronto. The artworks have a theme of modern zen. Elegant and restrained pieces, like a bare branch growing out of a shattered pot.
The wall behind the chef looks like fancy marbled rock, but it’s actually a clever wallpaper. The restaurant was just big enough to fit the sushi bar. Each omakase seating can only accommodate 8 people. There are two seatings per day.
The tableware was also noteworthy. Minimal, with a dash of modernity. The only oddball was the disposable chopsticks. Surely they could have procured some finer cutlery.
Smooth jazz muzak played throughout the meal. It wasn’t obtrusive and it actually made the experience more classy. Sushi Nishinokaze wouldn’t look out of place in Ginza (a high-end sushi mecca in Tokyo).
The service
Service wasn’t in your face and was there when needed. Dishes were replaced and water was refilled without prompting. Certainly, the waitstaff was keen to observe diners’ needs. In fact, it was just one person who did double duty as waiter and front-of-house.
Verdict
Sushi Nishinokaze offers a different side to familiar sushi. Personally, I’m not crazy about aged fish and I enjoyed the lightly-cured items more. Recommended if you haven’t had edomae sushi before and want to experience the most artful ambience for omakase in Toronto. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Sushi Nishinokaze
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Ikura
Kohada
Kuruma ebi
Uni - Prices
- Omakase: $169.50 ($150.00 excluding tax)
- Address
- 2950 Kennedy Road
- Hours
- Monday to Tuesday 1800h – 2230h
Thursday to Saturday 1800h – 2230h - Date of visit
- November 2021