The Central European dumplings of Toronto

Discover the starchy delights of spätzle, knedlíky, halušky, and nokedli in Toronto (and finding the best)

The iconic Central European food is undoubtedly the schnitzel, a thin, breaded slab of meat. It’s filling and easy to make, which explains its popularity outside the region. Witness cotoletta (Italy) and milanesa (Argentina and Brazil).

But we are not here to talk about something that is famous enough already. Today, we go on a tour of the second-most iconic food of Central Europe: dumplings. These are the underappreciated workhorses that give the cuisine a reputation for being heavy and starchy. Not to be confused with Asian dumplings, these dumplings are bite-sized lumps of flour, potato, or egg. They are also universally bland, so the skill comes in the texture and shape.

Toronto is blessed to have full representation of the dumplings of Central Europe: Germany/Austria/Switzerland, Czechia, Slovakia, and Hungary. (I left out Poland because their most famous dumpling, pierogi, is too divergent from the others. But if you are interested in Polish kopytka, Café Polonez is a good bet.)

One can easily go on a taste test around the city and debate which is the better variant. And that is exactly what I did.

Taste test method

It’s tough to judge an almost tasteless side dish on its own, so I included the main course that best highlights the dumpling.

Dumplings were reviewed in isolation for shape, texture, and uniformity.
Then, dumplings were judged with how well they integrated with the main course. I also take into account overall presentation and price. This may result in a rating that is lower or higher than the dumpling alone.
The main course was selected based on traditional pairings. Even more so if it was a restaurant’s signature dish.
Because of COVID-19, all food was takeout. Quality might have suffered because of the delay in tasting. So, I weigh more on flavour than texture and appearance. Flavour remains stable for a longer period of time.

German Spätzle

Any tour of Central European dumplings should begin in Germany, or Swabia in the southwest, to be precise. This is the origin of the oldest Central European dumpling, Spätzle. Commonly described as an egg noodle, it’s like a primitive version of pasta. Knobbly and toothsome, it provides enough textural interest to accompany other dishes.

Little Bavaria closed in the autumn of 2023. Thanks for the memories!

Little Bavaria

Little Bavaria is one of the oldest German restaurants in Toronto. Their main attraction is schnitzels, of which there are over 20 varieties! They have just one Spätzle dish, Käsespätzle (cheese Spätzle). I was delighted that it was hefty enough to be a main course on its own.

The first thing that hit me was the aroma of caramelized onions. It was quite strong and the dominant flavour. The amount of cheese was just enough to submerge the Spätzle without being overwhelming. Cheese used was very mild.

Käse Spätzle from Little Bavaria — Käsespätzle from Little Bavaria

The Spätzle itself was classic: about 10 mm x 25 mm and neatly shaped. Regularly irregular. It was al dente like a good pasta, with a satisfying chew. The overall dish was warm and fuzzy. Even though it was simple, all the ingredients harmonized together, especially the onions.

It didn’t seem like a huge portion but it was filling. Spätzle and cheese are heavy foods. The accompanying salad was just a throwaway to make you feel less guilty.

Shape: 8.5/10
Texture: 9/10
Uniformity: 8/10
Overall dish: 8.5/10

Closeup of spätzle from Little Bavaria — Spoonful of Spätzle

Little Bavaria is oddly situated in an Indian neighbourhood in Scarborough. It doesn’t look much on the outside but the interior is wonderfully kitschy. It’s a Bavarian bierhalle (beer hall) with all the stereotypical trimmings.

Adding to the charm is a musing about raining beer and snowing sausages, at the end of the menu. German speakers can appreciate.

Dinner menu from Little Bavaria. „Wenn’s fass Bier regnet und Bratwurstl schneit, machmer einen Bittgang, dass das Wetter so bleibt“

Otto’s Bierhalle

For a modern take on Spätzle and German pub food, Otto’s Bierhalle is the place. It’s a trendy pub.

They have 2 types of Spätzle: four cheese spatz and pork hock spatz. The latter is just the cheese spatz with pulled pork hock on top. For a fair comparison with Little Bavaria, I chose the basic four cheese spatz.

This was the most classy looking dumpling in the taste test. Slivers of pickled jalapeños and scallions showed off the chef’s knife skills. Specks of torched breadcrumbs gave the expectation of tasty char.

Four cheese spatz from Otto's Bierhalle — Four cheese spatz from Otto’s Bierhalle

Sadly, the Spätzle looked better than it tasted. It was thinner and shorter than others I’ve had. It was more similar to macaroni in size. It was too short to have a satisfying chew. Maybe they were aiming to emulate mac and cheese.

With all the ingredients, the dish strangely lacked flavour. The cheeses were so mild that I wouldn’t have known there were four of them. The ratio of cheese was also off. There should have been more Spätzle or less cheese for a less liquid consistency. The cheese “sauce” lacked salt, unami, or spices. Thank goodness for the jalapeños for they provided the only pop in flavour. The toasted breadcrumbs didn’t give smokiness. The brown ones were tasteless and the black ones were just bitter.

Don’t get me wrong, it was not an awful dish. Concept is good but I was frustrated with the missed potential. Portion could also be bigger. After all, flour is cheap.

Shape: 5/10
Texture: 6/10
Uniformity: 7/10
Overall dish: 6.5/10

Spatzle from Otto's Bierhalle — Spätzle from Otto’s Bierhalle

Other dishes from Otto’s Bierhalle are better. The hip interior is a pleasant place to unwind and have a drink. That is, if you can tolerate the loud music.

Interior of Otto's Bierhalle — Interior of Otto’s Bierhalle

Austrian Spätzle

From Southern Germany, Spätzle spread to neighbouring countries like Switzerland, France, and Austria. Austrian Spätzle is identical to German Spätzle.

Old Country Inn

In the heart of historic Main Street Unionville is the only Austrian restaurant in the Toronto region. Old Country Inn offers Spätzle as a side dish upgrade to its main dishes.

The most popular items at Old Country Inn are, what else, schnitzels. I went with a schnitzel sandwich (lunch only item) and upgraded my side from fries/salad to Spätzle.

Schnitzel sandwich with spatzle from Old Country Inn — Schnitzel sandwich with Spätzle from Old Country Inn

This was the only unmistakably pan-fried dumpling in the taste test. They were slightly browned and the taste of oil was discernible. The Maillard reaction imparted an additional dimension that was not present in other dumplings. Width of the Spätzle was consistent but lengths were uneven. The knobbly shape was authentic. I found the texture slightly soft. A bit more kneading could have made it more Q.

Spatzle from Old Country Inn — Spätzle from Old Country Inn

The schnitzel sandwich was a classic and worthy as a house specialty. It was excellent on its own: a large, pounded sheet of meat with crispy breading, sandwiched between toasted rye bread. It was great value. But it didn’t need a side. I should have picked a more saucy entrée to go with the Spätzle, like Sauerbraten (roast beef with sweet and sour sauce).

Shape: 7.5/10
Texture: 7.5/10
Uniformity: 6/10
Overall dish: 8/10

Old Country Inn exudes Austrian cottage vibes. I can’t decide whether the Mozart statue out front is quaint or touristy.

Statue at Old Country Inn — Mozart statue

They have a large dining area which reminded me of chalets in Tyrol, Austria.

Dining hall of Old Country Inn — Dining hall

Interior of Old Country Inn — Old-school interior of Old Country Inn

Czech knedlíky

For a peculiar type of dumpling, visit Czechia. Houskový knedlíky are bread dumplings and emblematic of the region. It looks and tastes like reconstituted bread. That’s because it is made from stale bread chunks, glued together with eggs and flour. Other types of knedlíky involve boiled bread dough, which, surprise, surprise, looks and tastes like bread.

Prague Restaurant

As the only Czech restaurant in the city, this is also the only place I know of that has bread dumplings. In fact, it serves a variety of traditional Czech dumplings. I love places like this that offer an authentic sampler of the cuisine.

Exterior of Prague Restaurant — Prague Restaurant

I went with beef goulash, which comes with Karlsbaden dumplings (karlovarský knedlíky). The defining characteristic of these dumplings is the mosaic arrangement of bread cubes. It was certainly the prettiest in the taste test.

The dumplings tasted like bread. I couldn’t discern the components that held the bread cubes together. Honestly, they could be replaced with slices of actual bread and it wouldn’t affect the flavour.

Since the dumpling was just reconstructed bread, it had the same texture too. They fulfilled their role as a gravy sponge, even though the bread chunks were tightly compressed.

Karlsbaden dumpling from Prague Restaurant

The goulash itself was tangy with vinegar and peppers. Czech goulash is not the same as Hungarian goulash. It is a gravy, not a soup. Still, it could have simmered longer to develop more flavour and tenderize the beef. Overall, an ok dish.

Shape: 9/10
Texture: 7/10
Uniformity: 8.5/10
Overall dish: 7.5/10

Prague Restaurant sits by an idyllic field, tucked away from the road that winds past Scarborough Golf Course. It’s no wonder that it’s popular for weddings and other events.

Turnoff for Prague Restaurant. It is located in Masaryktown, a Czech and Slovak institute with senior housing.

Slovak halušky

Coincidentally, the national dish of Slovakia is a dumpling, bryndzové halušky. Halušky are flour and potato dumplings, shaped into small lumps. The bryndzové variant slathers on bryndza (soft sheep cheese) and bacon pieces.

The two Slovak restaurants in the Greater Toronto Area offer halušky, so it was a no-brainer to use them for the taste test.

The Golden Pheasant

The Golden Pheasant bills itself as a Canadian-European restaurant, probably because most Canadians don’t know what is Slovakia. Halušky is on the menu (described as potato dumplings), as are other Slovakian dishes.

It was my first time trying halušky. The white cheese and white dumplings formed a striking backdrop against the bacon cubes. I was taken aback at how simple the dish was because those were the only components. Some herbs would be nice, but I suppose it wouldn’t be traditional.

The other thing that struck me was how enormous the portions were. The halušky alone was heavy enough for two meals, but it also came with fries on the side. The fries were actually really good: crisp, thick-cut, and well-seasoned…and came in a heaping portion that could be another two meals in itself.

Halušky from the Golden Pheasant — Bryndzové halušky from the Golden Pheasant

This is a dish that is best eaten on the spot, which was unfortunately impossible because of COVID-19 dining restrictions. The bacon lost its crispiness in takeout transit and the cheese solidified. So, I didn’t penalize those when rating the dish.

The dumplings were shaped into dainty lumps, like deformed pearls. Texture was similar to gnocchi and had a satisfying bounce. All dumplings were fairly consistent in production.

The dish had a strong, pleasing scent of bacon. So much so that others complimented about it when I was carrying it around. Where it suffered was flavour. It was by no means bad. But plain dumplings with salty cheese and bacon gets one-dimensional quickly. It could use some sharp or tangy sauce. With the right main dish, those beautiful halušky could shine.

Shape: 8/10
Texture: 8/10
Uniformity: 8/10
Overall dish: 7/10

The Golden Pheasant is dressed up like a Slovak sports bar. It has a familial vibe.

Dining area of the Golden Pheasant, with pool table

V’s Schnitzel House

Like the Golden Pheasant, V’s Schnitzel House doesn’t brand itself as a Slovak restaurant and focuses on the most recognized Central European dish. It is strange to come to V’s Schnitzel House and not order schnitzel but I am on a dumpling mission.

What you see is what you get with halušky. This version used bacon strips instead of cubes. As with the Golden Pheasant, quality of the halušky suffered from takeout, but I take that into account.

Halušky from V's Schnitzel House — Bryndzové halušky from V’s Schnitzel House

The dumplings were irregular in length. They were not as aesthetically pleasing as the Golden Pheasant’s. It was also denser than I would like.

Closeup of halušky from V's Schnitzel House — Spoonful of halušky from V’s Schnitzel House

The cheese was slightly gamey and would appeal to those who like their cheese strong. The bacon tasted like cheap supermarket bacon. A shorter or thicker cut would complement the stubby halušky better. Overall, it was an unremarkable version of Bryndzové halušky.

Shape: 6/10
Texture: 6.5/10
Uniformity: 6.5/10
Overall dish: 5.5/10

The interior of V’s Schnitzel House is like a fast food diner. They have a second floor patio, which comes in handy during a pandemic.

Main entrance of V's Schnitzel House — Entrance of V’s Schnitzel House

Hungarian nokedli

When Spätzle made its way to Hungary, it turned into nokedli. The main difference is that it is served with Hungarian dishes. The customary pairing is with chicken paprikash (paprikás csirke): pan-fried chicken with a gravy of onions and paprika. It’s no surprise that all Hungarian restaurants in Toronto offer chicken paprikash with nokedli. So, I used that as a benchmark.

Budapest Hungarian Restaurant

Budapest Restaurant has the largest range of dishes of the Hungarian restaurants in Toronto. It’s a family restaurant with bric-a-brac from Hungary scattered around.

Their chicken paprikash looked boring. Though authentic, it lacked colour. But looks can be deceiving, because it was actually the best tasting dish in the taste test.

The nokedli resembled scrambled eggs. It was stubby and had slightly uneven sizes. Texture was all right but it could be a bit more Q. Each noodle retained its integrity.

Chicken paprikash from Budapest Hungarian Restaurant

The highlight was definitely the paprikash gravy. It had remarkably deep flavours considering it was only made up of a handful of ingredients. Rich umami from onions and quality Hungarian paprika made all the difference. It was the perfect match for nokedli. The chicken was lightly browned from searing in butter. The meat was tender and falling off the bone. Did I mention the gravy?

Shape: 8/10
Texture: 8/10
Uniformity: 7.5/10
Overall dish: 8.5/10

Country Style

Country Style has a long history in the Annex. Back in the 1980s, this strip had several Hungarian restaurants but today it is just down to Country Style. In fact, it closed for a while before re-opening in 2016. For some Toronto residents, it brings back fond memories of the wooden platter: a massive meat fest featuring a knife plunged into schnitzels and sausages. Country Style is not the only Central European restaurant in Toronto that serves this, but it is the only one downtown.

Also like other Central European restaurants, customers go for schnitzels first. Dumplings are sadly bottom-tier food. At Country Style, only the paprikash comes with nokedli.

Country Style’s nokedli was the chunkiest of the egg noodles in this taste test. It was comparatively smooth and did not have as many curves and well-defined ridges. They were soft and could use more bounce.

As for the paprikash, it looked ordinary. The gravy didn’t have much flavour. It could have benefited from more spices, stock, or longer simmering. The chicken portions were generous but I found the meat a tad tough. I wished the skin was browned more. On the bright side, the pickles were crisp and tangy. They helped lift the dish up. Overall, this was an average paprikash.

Shape: 5/10
Texture: 6/10
Uniformity: 5.5/10
Overall dish: 6/10

Verdict

The ratings here are not about the overall quality of a restaurant. They are about just one dish. A restaurant might have better or worse dishes than the ones reviewed.

Little Bavaria
8.5/10
Best dumpling main dish. Well-crafted Spätzle. Simple but flavourful.
Budapest Hungarian Restaurant
8.5/10
Best pairing of dumplings with an entrée. Textbook quality nokedli. Deceptively ordinary paprikash was packed with flavour.
Old Country Inn
8/10
Pan-fried Spätzle added pleasant browning. Schnitzel sandwich was excellent value.
Prague Restaurant
7.5/10
Pretty knedlíky. Tasted and felt no different from bread. Good vehicle for soaking sauces from main dish.
The Golden Pheasant
7/10
100% traditional halušky. Gigantic portions. Basic flavours. Got heavy quickly.
Otto’s Bierhalle
6.5/10
Modern Spätzle, interpreted as gourmet mac and cheese. Felt more like macaroni than Spätzle. Cheeses were too mild.
Country Style
6/10
Average nokedli and paprikash.
V’s Schnitzel House
5.5/10
Average halušky.

Dumplings take a lot of effort to make and have low profit margins. While some in this taste test are better than others, I am thankful that all these restaurants even offer them. Please support these restaurants so that we can continue to enjoy a diverse range of dumplings.

Practical information