This restaurant closed in Autumn 2020. Thanks for the memories!
Affordable Andhra cuisine in a lavish setting
The evolution of South Indian restaurants in non-Asian cities usually starts with pan-Indian eateries serving stereotypical food (think butter chicken and biryani). Then, it branches out to general South Indian restaurants serving dosas and idlis. The first regional specialization to emerge is Tamil cuisine. The majority of cities never get past this stage. If there is enough diner demand and sophistication, Keralan restaurants will appear next. Andhra and Telugu restaurants are rare, with the exception of Hyderabadi biryani shops. Only a few cities outside of India and the Middle East get specialists in the least-known South Indian cuisine, Karnataka.
That’s why I was excited to try Godavari, one of only two Andhra restaurants in the Toronto region. Although they don’t have the full gamut of Andhra dishes (like avakaya, a mango pickle), they offer some regional specialties that can’t be found elsewhere in Canada. Andhra cuisine is one of the spiciest in India. Unfortunately, I can’t comment on the spice levels at Godavari because I did not order any spicy dishes for this visit.
The food
Pesarattu (పెసరట్టు) is a dosa made with moong dal (mung beans) instead of urad dal (black gram). For those unfamiliar with South Indian cuisine, a dosa is a large crepe made with lightly fermented batter. It is always served with a variety of chutneys. The batter might have additional ingredients like onions and chillies. The dosa can also enclose various fillings, which leads to endless variations.
One unusual variation here is upma pesarattu, available only on weekends. I’ve had upma before but never in a dosa. Upma (ఉప్మా) is made of semolina clumps with the consistency of mashed potatoes. It’s a comfort food suitable for all ages. Here, a few tablespoons of upma is stuffed in the pesarattu.
The pesarattu had a more grainy texture compared to a regular dosa. The difference is like with whole wheat bread and white bread. It felt thicker, yet not as stretchy, probably from the absence of rice flour. I prefer the texture of a dosa. I would order pesarattu if I am looking for variety. As for taste, it was pretty similar to a dosa. The usual spices were there: cumin, hing (asafoetida), and salt.
The upma didn’t add much to the pesarattu. They could have been eaten separately. The upma was plain and didn’t have vivacious ingredients like curry leaves and cashews, as a standalone dish might have.
Each pesarattu or dosa comes with 4 chutneys and a bowl of sambar (mildly spicy lentil broth). My favourites were the coconut and peanut chutneys. The coconut chutney was fresh with the scent of ginger. Although it was not as spectacular as the one from the top dosa restaurant, Guru Lukshmi, it was still delicious. It brightened up the plain pesarattu. I am a sucker for peanuts, and the peanut chutney added another flavour dimension. My only complaint was that it could be more chunky and less liquid. The tomato chutney was forgettable. The ginger chutney was too sharp for my liking but might appeal to those who like achar (a South Indian pickle). The sambar was decent. None of the accompaniments were particularly spicy.
Another unique offering is alasanda vada (ఆలసంద వడలు), which are fritters made from black-eyed peas. I’ve never had them before, so was surprised when they came out as dry, flat discs. The most common type of vada is medu vada, made from urad dal. I’ve had many of these before and they are savoury, puffy doughnuts. Alasanda vada is not like that at all. The taste was similar and quite good actually. But the texture was like dried, compressed muesli. If it were crispy or bread-y, it would be more palatable. It needed more fat or moisture. On the positive side, the black-eyed peas gave an earthy flavour that is missing from medu vada.
The place
The setting elevates the overall rating of Godavari. From the outside, it looks like an unremarkable roadside eatery. Inside, it is furnished like an opulent mansion. There are faux-Renaissance paintings, stained glass, gilded cornices, and plenty of chandeliers. The thick, white tablecloth and tableware looks formal. On closer inspection, the cutlery and glasses are actually dull and plain. The dishes are served in white melamine trays typical of a cafeteria. It’s quite incongruous. Then again, this isn’t the first restaurant in the region with palatial decor that has nothing to do with the cuisine. See dim sum mansions in Markham and Russian banquet halls in Toronto.
The interior is much larger than the exterior suggests. There are two dining areas, a bar, and space for a small stage. It’s clearly purposed to host events like weddings.
Verdict
Dosas and pesarattus are above average. The palatial interior bumps up the score a bit. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Godavari
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Onion pesarattu
Punugulu - Prices
- Onion pesarattu: $13.56 ($12.00 before tax)
Upma pesarattu: $14.69 ($13.00 before tax)
Punugulu: $6.65 ($6.00 before tax)
Alasanda vada: $7.35 ($6.50 before tax) - Address
- 3215 Derry Road East, Mississauga
- Hours
- Tuesday to Thursday 1700h – 2200h
Friday to Sunday 1200h – 1500h, 1700h – 2200h - Date of visit
- December 2019