Yes, the humble Bosnian somun bread is the star here
To be honest, I don’t crave for Balkan food. This cuisine is shared by Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, Kosovo, Albania, and North Macedonia. It’s heavy on meats, dairy, sugar, and preserved vegetables. Light on spices and fresh greens. It’s the sort of food to eat after a day of shovelling snow. The places that offer these foods in Toronto are traditional, no frills establishments. Somun Superstar is one of the few that packages it in modernity while still preserving tradition.
Without doubt, the star of this restaurant is somun, freshly made on-premise. Somun is a Bosnian wheat-based flatbread, like a thicker and more bread-y pita. Honestly, I think the bread can stand on its own but I imagine it would be hard to base a business around one product. So, it’s a smart move to pitch the restaurant around somun sandwiches.
The food
Let’s talk about the superstar first. The somun is chewy but not overly so. The consistency is similar to pita. It is toasted well with brown splotches. The taste is faintly yeasty and salty, like a white bread. When eaten with the sandwich fillings, you barely taste the somun. That’s how it should be because the bread shouldn’t steal attention in a sandwich.
The classic ćevapčići sandwich is the standard bearer, as it is the simplest. It is stuffed with moist pieces of ćevapčići (grilled ground meat patties). I’ve had them overcooked in other places, so this was a nice change. Seasoning was simple. As if the fatty meat wasn’t heavy enough, there was a generous amount of kajmak (clotted cream; pronounced kai-mak). Thankfully, there were some diced white onions to cut through the grease. Raw onions don’t normally make good sandwich toppings but it worked here because something strong and pungent was needed to offset the cream and meat. I wished the onions were lightly seasoned, to add more interest to the flavour.
I like how Somun Superstar adds contemporary touches. For example, instead of fries to go along with the sandwiches, they use homemade crinkle-cut chips. Eat them fresh. They don’t stay crisp after an hour. They were decent. Not amazing but it was a step up from diner fries that typically accompany Balkan fast food.
A side of pickled cabbages and chillies is included with each sandwich. Unsurprising, since pickles are popular in the Balkans. They have a textbook taste. Dominant flavours were salt and vinegar. Mild heat from the chillies. It’s another way to liven up the heaviness of the sandwich.
The other types of sandwiches are minor variations. Nothing wacky here. Somun Superstar also sells their own condiments like ajvar (red pepper paste) and plum pekmez (syrup-jam). Everything here tastes homemade and carefully prepared. Despite the hipster appearance of the restaurant, the food is traditional done well.
The place
The branding and interior decor are contemporary casual. It should appeal to those who want to hang out on a lazy afternoon. But not for many people though—there’s room for just 10 or so.
A large oven sits proudly behind the counter. That’s where the somun magic happens. The owners are friendly and enthusiastic to explain the menu.
Verdict
Somun is by far the best part of the sandwich. Contemporary touches like crinkle-cut chips are a welcome addition for traditionally heavy Balkan food. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Somun Superstar
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Classic ćevapčići sandwich
- Prices
- Classic ćevapčići sandwich: $11.30 ($10.00 before tax)
- Address
- 998 Kingston Road
- Hours
- Tuesday to Saturday 1200h – 1900h
Sunday 1200h – 1700h - Date of visit
- March 2020