Upscale dim sum and inventive creations
Lai Wah Heen is the grand dame of luxury dim sum, incorporating ingredients like lobster and caviar since the 1990s. It won critical acclaim but standards went downhill for a long time before rising again. Today, it’s still a decent place to try high-end dim sum if you don’t want to make the trip to Richmond Hill and Markham.
Online reviews are harsh, mainly because the price doesn’t meet expectations. Indeed, some items like char siu bao (barbecued pork buns) don’t taste that all different from average restaurants but are priced higher. The trick is to select the right things. Research on their specialties beforehand and get the unique ones. Then, the experience won’t be as bad as detractors claim.
The food
At the top of the menu are Lai Wah Heen’s unique creations (read: premium and expensive). I recommend trying at least one of them.
The lobster and shrimp dumpling is a good place to start. It was self-explanatory in appearance. Possibly the most photogenic dumpling in the country. The goodies were in the body of the lobster-shaped dumpling. The claws were just flavourless dough though. I felt it was a missed opportunity to add some flavour or crispness to contrast with the rest of the dumpling.
The dumpling was well-filled but not bursting. Lobster had a faint flavour. The taste of shrimp was much more noticeable. The filling still retained juices from the crustaceans. Although it was advertised as having garlic butter, I couldn’t really taste them. Sometimes, quality produce should speak for itself. Overall, the texture and flavour of the filling was ok. But the dough could use a pinch of sea salt. 7.5/10.
Another unusual dim sum is the foie gras (duck liver) pastry. A sizeable slice of foie gras sat on top a thick stew of pork and shrimp, garnished with garlic and spring onions. Neither French nor Cantonese, it’s how good fusion food should be.
The vol-au-vent pastry was flakey and well-laminated, just like at good French pâtisseries. The foie definitely asserted itself. Now, it wasn’t top quality and that’s reflected in the price. It didn’t melt in the mouth nor did it explode with umami but it did telegraph the essence of foie gras. A few seconds of searing could have produced a more buttery interior. It was my first time having foie with Chinese minced pork and shrimp. Somehow the combination works. The gooey gravy helped bring out the decadence of this hors d’œuvre. 8/10.
It’s not surprising that siu mai gets the luxury treatment too. These shrimp and pork meatballs are crowned with a slice of scallop. Orange tobiko (fish roe) added a much needed dose of colour.
Other than the scallop, it looked like an ordinary siu mai.
Although the scallop was cooked well, I couldn’t really taste it over the strong flavours of the pork. Even the shrimp was lost. It tasted like a regular siu mai. The proportion of seafood could have been increased to balance the earthy pork. Caviar or minced shrimp may be be appropriate. Or the scallop could have been seared and placed after the siu mai was steamed. 6/10.
There is a menagerie of animal-shaped dim sums at Lai Wah Heen. The Berkshire pork and shrimp dumpling is crafted into an adorable pigglet. Its ears are deep-fried garlic chips and its eyes are black sesame seeds. It’s an ingenious presentation of a classic deep-fried dumpling.
The dumpling itself was textbook quality. Super crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside. As with the siu mai, the pork flavour dominated and I barely noticed the baby shrimp. The dumpling could also be more tightly packed. The pieces of Berkshire pork were cut too small for me to appreciate the difference with regular pork. It got heavy and cloying after a few bites, so a few sharp vegetables or vinegar dip could liven things up. The garlic chip was enjoyable and provided a respite from the monotonous interior. All in all, a classic Cantonese glutinous rice dumpling. The premium ingredients didn’t make a difference. 7/10.
There were two choices for congee. I don’t like abalone, so I went with the minced pork and oyster congee. This is a classic Fujianese and Taiwanese combination. Nothing fusion nor modern about this rendition.
I liked that they were generous with the oysters. They were almost in equal proportion to the minced pork clumps. One order of congee could fill up 4 to 6 small bowls.
The congee had the comforting gooey texture of Cantonese congee. Unlike the dumplings, the pork did not dominate. With each bite, I got a bit of oyster, pork, green onion, and ginger. It would have been even better if there was seafood stock to amp up the umami. After all, it’s supposed to be a surf and turf congee. 7.5/10.
I left baos (buns) for dessert. The custard lava baos were the only sweet ones on the menu.
I must compliment on the perfectly smooth and spherical top. Beautifully risen. They looked so understated, in contrast to the vibrant filling.
Do not bite into these buns. That might cause scalding custard to explode in your face. Tear or cut them apart to see the filling ooze out like molten chocolate.
The bao was soft and airy. I enjoyed them more than the filling. There was nothing wrong with the filling technically. It had the perfect semi-liquid consistency. It was mildly sweet. I just found it boring. A bit more sugar or a second flavour profile would make it more interesting. How about maple custard lava bao next time? 8/10.
Lai Wah Heen has rotating specials. I picked one out of curiosity: “wok-fried rice roll in conpoy chilli sauce”. In other words, stir-fried cheong fun (腸粉) with XO sauce. It’s uncommon to find fried cheong fun as nearly all dim sum restaurants offer the steamed version. Stir-frying involves a different set of skills and cookware than typical dim sum. So, I was eager to see how it would turn out.
It ended up to be an excellent choice. It was a simple dish but it was so flavourful. It’s just chunks of cheong fun, bean sprouts, red peppers, green onions, and XO sauce. XO sauce is the bacon of Cantonese food. It’s made up of dried seafood, chillies, and aromatics. The bland cheong fun was the perfect foil to highlight the sauce. Wok hei (smokiness and char) was present and yet the rice rolls retained their integrity. They did not dry out, unravel, or become soggy. They were caramelized uniformly. 8/10.
Tea was fairly unremarkable, as were the condiments. But the tableware looked elegant.
The place
Lai Wah Heen is conveniently located downtown, a few minutes walk from Eaton Centre and City Hall. It’s in the Doubletree hotel.
The decor looks like how an upscale Cantonese restaurant would look like in the 1990s. It’s slightly dated but still retains an old charm. Muted colours and simple lines.
Flourishes of calligraphy punctuate the walls. It is a fitting place for a splurge or business meal.
Verdict
Luxury dim sum stalwart with some creative hits and misses. 7.5/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Lai Wah Heen
- Rating
- 7.5/10
- Recommended dishes
- Lobster and shrimp steamed dumpling
Foie gras pastry
Rice roll fried in XO sauce - Prices (including tax)
- Lobster and shrimp steamed dumpling: $7.35 per piece
Foie gras pastry: $10.74 per piece
Pork, shrimp, and scallop siu mai: $10.74 for 4
Berkshire pork and shrimp deep-fried dumpling: $10.17 for 3
Minced pork and oyster congee: $11.30
Custard lava steamed bun: $10.74 for 3
Rice roll fried in XO sauce: $9.04 - Address
- DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel, 108 Chestnut Street
- Hours
- Monday to Friday 1130h – 1500h, 1800h – 2200h
Saturday 1130h – 1600h, 1800h – 2300h
Sunday 1100h – 1600h, 1800h – 2200h - Date of visit
- August 2020