The perfect mandi
There are less than 10 Yemeni restaurants in the Greater Toronto Area. All of them serve mandi. It goes to show what the most popular export of that nation is. While none of them cook it in the traditional way (in an underground pit), they are all still pretty tasty. Of these restaurants, Monasaba is by far the best in every aspect.
Mandi—A celebratory rice feast
Mandi (مندي) is a rice dish cooked with meat stock and spices reminiscent of North India. While the rice cooks, meat is placed on top of it so that its juices can seep down. It reminds me of Indian biryani and that is not coincidental. Yemen had strong historical trade links with India. Traditionally, mandi is served during feasts since it is laborious to prepare. It’s doesn’t make sense to cook a small portion after going through the hassle of setting up an underground oven. So, Yemenis use a large vat that can feed multiple families.
Today, mandi can be found around the Arabian peninsula. In Dubai, it has become a food fad with food court stalls and fancy restaurants popping up with their own renditions. Since visiting Yemen and Saudi Arabia is out of the question for most foreigners, Dubai is the most accessible place to try mandi. And if you can’t travel to the Middle East, Monasaba in Mississauga has an excellent version as well.
The food
Like most mandi restaurants, the two protein choices are chicken and lamb. I prefer chicken and was delighted that they offered a quarter chicken mandi. It’s great for individuals or sampling, since mandi orders are normally big enough for a family.
Every component was executed perfectly, including the condiments and toppings. I could taste and name every ingredient. For me, the highlight is the foundation of mandi: the rice. There were only a few spices used but they were intensely aromatic. Cardamom, cloves, cumin were distinct. Rice was tinged yellow from turmeric. Each grain was lightly imbued with chicken flavour and uniformly cooked.
At Monasaba, toppings could be served on the side or on the mandi. That’s smart since some people want to preserve the integrity of the toppings while others want their flavours to diffuse in the dish during takeout. I kept raisins and almonds in but left fried onions on the side since they can quickly overwhelm a dish. The onions remained crisp and made the mandi more savoury. Raisins were plump and juicy. The almonds provided much needed crunch. Lightly toasting them brought out their delicate flavour.
The chicken leg was the only component that could be improved upon. Don’t get me wrong, it was good but it could have been better. Meat was falling off the bone and the fat had rendered beautifully. Crisping up the skin and adding caramelization would have been the icing on the cake.
The accompanying tomato chilli sauce was fresh and mild. Not watered-down like other places. Great for livening up the heavy rice dish.
The place
Unlike most mandi restaurants in the Greater Toronto Area, Monasaba is actually an enjoyable place to dine in. Classy even. This is the first time I have seen plaster reliefs of Arabic calligraphy on the walls of a restaurant. Warm lighting and Yemeni artworks abound. A celebratory family gathering or date night wouldn’t be out of the place here.
Verdict
Best mandi in the Greater Toronto Area. 8/10.
Practical information
- Name
- Monasaba
- Rating
- 8/10
- Recommended dishes
- Chicken mandi
- Prices
- Quarter chicken mandi: $10.11 ($8.95 excluding tax)
- Address
- 2273 Dundas Street West, Unit 11, Mississauga
- Hours
- Daily 1400h – 2200h
- Date of visit
- August 2020