In the wrong hands, Nigerian food can be intimidating to newcomers. The spices are unfamiliar, the stews are brimming with oil, and there is a penchant for using viscera like goat’s head, cow’s stomach, knuckles, and feet. The latter is delightfully described as “assorted”.
For a gentle but flavourful introduction, come to Afrobeat Kitchen. They take out the squeamish parts and elevate dishes with modern techniques and fusion ingredients. They are the only ones in Toronto that fit into the chic mid-range Nigerian category. And they are doing this as a virtual kitchen.
Afrobeat Kitchen, co-located with Caravan Cafe and Teahouse
Suyas are easily the most accessible Nigerian food. Unlike other traditional dishes like slimy cow foot soup (nkwobi) or mud-like amala (yam flour paste), barbecued meat is a crowd-pleaser. It’s no wonder that the majority of Nigerian restaurants in Toronto offer suya. The Suya Spot is one of the best places to sample this meaty delight.
The Suya Spot
Do you want your West African meats well-done or extra well-done?
In my travels to West Africa, I’ve sadly never had revelatory food experiences. Grilled meat is popular and goes by different names: suya in Nigeria, soya in Cameroon, and brochette in Niger. However, quality ranges from ho-hum to bad at most places. I’ve never been to Nigeria (I blame unreasonable visa fees), but my experiences in surrounding countries indicate a philosophy of overcooking meat. It could be for hygiene reasons or a local preference. But it does tend towards dry and tough proteins.
Suyas are no exception. Good suya places will grill them just under the verge of being overdone. Bad places will just give chewy or burnt meat. Suyas have a unique flavour profile compared to other meat-on-a-stick delicacies from around the world. It comes from the use of West African spices like uda (a type of pepper, also known as grains of Selim) and kuli kuli (deep-fried groundnut flour). I recommend trying them at least once to broaden your horizons.
