Southeast Asian Archives - Global Toronto Eats

Bo 7 Mon (Vietnamese beef 7 ways) in Toronto

A head-to-head comparison of the ultimate beef extravaganza

Bò 7 món (literally 7 courses of beef) doesn’t come up often in Vietnamese menus. It’s a splurge and it takes a lot of kitchen prep work. I only know of 5 specialists in Toronto in the last decade. Only 2 remain today: Bo 7 Mon Restaurant and Phở Cửu Long Miền Tây. If there are other good ones, please let me know!

Since there are so few contenders, it’s easy to do a head-to-head battle to determine who makes the best bò 7 món.

What goes in a bò 7 món

Bò 7 món is associated with Southern Vietnam, which is more affluent than the rest of the country. In fact, the oldest specialist in Vietnam, Au Pagolac, is located in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). There isn’t a prescription about what the 7 courses are, but there is usually one sausage dish, a beef hot pot (bò nhúng dấm), and beef congee (cháo bò).

The contenders

Bo 7 Mon Restaurant

The name says it all. It’s a weird name if you think about it, like a burger restaurant naming themselves “Burger Restaurant”. Although they can’t trademark the name, it does make it clear what they sell.

Exterior of Bo 7 Mon — Bo 7 Mon Restaurant

This restaurant is in a plaza dominated by Vietnamese restaurants. They’re all better than average and have carved out their own niche to avoid direct competition. Although Bo 7 Mon Restaurant’s specialty is obvious, they also have regular noodles and rice meals for those who want something simpler.

Interior of Bo 7 Mon — Dining area of Bo 7 Mon Restaurant

Phở Cửu Long Miền Tây

This restaurant sits at a junction that has a cluster of Vietnamese restaurants. Đà Nẵng Restaurant is a few minutes walk away and also has bò 7 món, though they are better known for their Central Vietnamese dishes.

It’s a modest-sized space with functional decor.

Exterior of Phở Cửu Long Miền Tây — Phở Cửu Long Miền Tây

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Samara Kitchen

An authentic slice of Indonesia in Mississauga

Why are so many good food places located in desolate industrial areas? Probably low rents. And less incentive to invest in interiors. Samara Kitchen is a classic example of tasty eateries in obscure locations. They can be confident that customers will detour to this sprawling industrial district behind Pearson airport. After all, there aren’t many Indonesian restaurants in the region. The hefty portions, large menu, and authenticity make this the top Indonesian food destination in the region.

Exterior of Samara Kitchen — Samara Kitchen

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My Pandan Cake

Classic pandan chiffons and a stellar durian cake

Pandan is one of the wonder plants of Southeast Asian cuisine. Like vanilla in French pastries, pandan imparts a unique fragrance to desserts that cannot be substituted. It also has the nifty effect of turning food into shades of green. It’s great for St Patrick’s Day.

Pandan cakes are not new in Toronto, but My Pandan Cake is the first specialist of them. Specifically, pandan chiffon cakes.

Exterior of My Pandan Cake — My Pandan Cake

The unofficial national cake of Singapore (and Malaysia)

Pandan chiffon cakes don’t have a cult following in Singapore and Malaysia. They are just there in the background in neighbourhood bakeries. Kind of like cinnamon rolls in Canada. There are certainly connoisseurs and specialty stores out there, but most Singaporeans will propose other desserts like chendol (shaved ice with red beans and jelly in coconut syrup) as the national dessert before considering pandan cakes.

It might be because the cake is simple. For the uninitiated, chiffon cakes are extremely light and tall cakes. Their airy texture comes from whipped eggs and avoidance of solid fats like butter. For pandan chiffon cake, add coconut milk and essence of pandan. The latter is derived from straining pandan leaves into a dark green liquid. It tastes like a fragrant grass. The cake is baked in a pan with a tube in the center, resulting in a characteristic hole in the middle. Traditionally, the cake is undecorated and enjoyed plain with coffee or tea.

Even though pandan chiffon cakes don’t get a lot of hype in their home countries, it’s definitely something that visitors notice when they stay for more than a few weeks.

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Favorites Thai

Uniquely Canadian-Thai

Toronto has no shortage of good Thai restaurants that stay true to traditional recipes. It’s about time that a stellar Canadian-Thai restaurant came along. Canadian-Thai is what I call food that is not quite Thai. It features local produce and Canadian flavour combinations.

The most un-Canadian thing about Favorites Thai is its name. It should be spelt “Favourites”. Other than that, expect to find uniquely Canadian interpretations of Thai cuisine here. No, I am not talking about pad thai with ketchup.

Exterior of Favorites Thai — Favorites Thai, co-located in Sam James Coffee Bar

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Makan

Malaysian-inspired baos and rice bowls

Makan stands out as the only Malaysian restaurant in downtown Toronto. Ok, it’s Malaysian-inspired rather than actual Malaysian. The only recognizably traditional dishes are their nasi lemak (coconut rice), rendang (dry coconut curry), and chicken curry. Still, it is a welcome change from the usual chain restaurant and food court fare. The food is above average and well-priced to boot.

Exterior of Makan — Makan. Fugo, a dessert store, is also co-located there.

The food

The menu can be summarized as (1) stuff on baos or rice and (2) tater tots. Tater tots are an oddball for the restaurant’s concept. I didn’t try them for this review. I would have preferred Malaysian sides like begedil (croquettes), curry puffs (curry pastries), or rojak (savoury fruit salad).

Beef rendang and Filet Not Fish baos from Makan — Beef rendang and Filet Not Fish baos

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A culinary odyssey of Vietnam in Toronto

Feasting on Northern, Central, and Southern Vietnamese food across Toronto

Toronto has the largest Vietnamese population in Canada. Outside Vietnam, it is also one of the cities with the largest number of people of Vietnamese descent. Waves of immigrants came in with the onset of the Vietnam War. And with them came a blossoming of the Vietnamese food scene in Toronto.

Phở (rice noodles with beef) has become synonymous with Vietnamese food in Toronto. Naturally, there is far more to Vietnamese cuisine and it’s a shame that many Toronto diners don’t venture beyond the familiar dishes. The major regional cuisines of Vietnam are divided into North, Central, and South, each differing slightly in terms of ingredients and spices. So, to inspire your next meal, here are some of the best restaurants to check out for each regional cuisine. Please don’t come to these places for just phở.

Northern Vietnamese: Phở Sơn

Northern Vietnamese food shares similarities with Southern Chinese food. Flavours tend towards sweet, salty, and mild. Phở originated here and the broth is simple and clear, letting ingredients speak for themselves. There aren’t many Northern Vietnamese restaurants in Toronto. Phở Sơn stands out for being consistently good in every dish.

No tour of Northern Vietnamese cuisine is complete without bún chả Hà Nội. This is a specialty of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. It consists of rice vermicelli (bún) with a bowl of sweet-sour fish sauce (nước mắm) to dip into. Grilled pork pieces (chả) are served on the side.

Phở Sơn has the best bún chả in Toronto. It was a refreshing change from other Vietnamese restaurants to find vegetables treated with such care. Every leaf in the herb garnish was free of blemishes. Carrots and daikons were cut into flowers. It might be old-fashioned but I appreciate a restaurant that showcases its knife skills.

Bun cha ha noi noodles from Pho Son — Bún chả Hà Nội from Phở Sơn. Quality bouquet of herbs on top. Bag of nước mắm and pickles at the back.

Expert technique was evident on the grilled pork as well. The fish sauce and soy sauce marinade seeped throughout the meat. The exterior was lightly charred and not burnt. Pork was succulent. Did I mention the accompanying vegetables were carefully carved?

The nước mắm was a refreshing counterpoint. An intense combination of sour, sweet, pungent, and spicy. It was one of the best traditional Vietnamese dishes I’ve had. 8.5/10.

Bun cha ha noi toppings from Pho Son — Grilled pork and boiled vegetables for bún chả Hà Nội

On weekends, Phở Sơn cooks up offal and sausages. They are famous for their cháo lòng dồi (pork offal congee). I don’t see this offered at most Vietnamese restaurants, probably because Toronto diners are squeamish about eating intestines and stomachs.

Chao long doi from Pho Son — Cháo lòng dồi from Phở Sơn

The congee had a style distinct from Chinese ones. It was more peppery, smokey, and oily. It was also deliciously savoury. There was an assortment of offal like large intestine, liver, and stomach. They were succulent and not overcooked. 8/10.

Offal of chao long doi from Pho Son — Intestine in cháo lòng dồi

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Boat King of Thai Noodles

This restaurant closed in March 2021. Thanks for the memories!

Slurp-worthy boat noodles and other lesser-known Thai noodles

Delightfully ungrammatical name aside, Boat King of Thai Noodles is the place to get a wide range of Thai noodles. Everyone knows about pad thai. Some know about pad see ew (ผัดซีอิ๊ว) and pad kee mao (ผัดขี้เมา). This restaurant offers lesser-known dishes that only Thai food enthusiasts will recognize. For example, its signature and namesake is boat noodles. It’s the best version in Toronto. Then again, there aren’t a lot of competitors. Nana used to offer this before the pandemic. Kiin used to offer it when they had lunch service. Now, Thai Noodle is the only other place near downtown that has boat noodles.

Exterior of Boat King of Thai Noodles — Boat King of Thai Noodles

Kway tiaw reua—the unsung emblem of Thai noodles

I have a confession to make. I don’t like pad thai. This after eating it all over Thailand and seeking the best restaurants. It’s too boring for me and strikes me as a leftovers dish. Even though pad thai is identified as the iconic dish of Thailand, it should be boat noodles. Just like how green curry is unique to Thailand, boat noodles are quite different from its noodle cousins in China and Southeast Asia.

Boat noodles are known as kway tiaw reua in Thai (ก๋วยเตี๋ยวเรือ). It also goes by other English transliterations like kuai tiao reua or guay teow rua. I use the least ambiguous spelling here. Boat noodles gets its name from vendors rowing on boats through Bangkok’s canals. The food was prepared in the boat and handed off to customers on the shore. In modern times, restaurateurs have moved to dry land.

The defining characteristics of boat noodles are its small serving size and its blood-infused broth. Yup, you read that right. There is some pig and cow blood to thicken the broth. It doesn’t taste strong like Chinese or Vietnamese blood cakes but it darkens the brown broth and adds to the texture and richness. Most people wouldn’t even notice it. The bowl is small because historically, vendors wanted to minimize spillage when passing it to customers. Nowadays, it has become a tradition to order multiple bowls and stack them up like some kind of trophy to gluttony.

There are several varieties of boat noodles. You can mix and match the type of noodles and broth. Common noodles are sen yai (เส้นใหญ่; broad, flat rice noodles), sen lek (เส้นเล็ก; thin rice noodles also used for pad thai), and ba mee (บะหมี่; yellow egg noodles). Broth choices are beef blood, pork blood, yen ta foo (fermented red bean curd), or tom yum. The blood choices, called nam tok, are representative of boat noodles.

Boat noodles at Pa Yak, Bangkok — Boat noodles at Pa Yak, near Victory Monument in Bangkok. Clockwise from left: pork sen yai with blood broth, pork sen yai with tom yam broth, beef sen yai with blood broth.

Toppings include meat slices, meat balls, liver, leafy vegetables like morning glory, bean sprouts, fried garlic, and pork crackling. Diners add peanuts, sugar, chillies, and other condiments to taste. It’s a comforting dish. The broth packs meatiness and umami that makes you want to order more.

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Dzo Viet Eatery

Hip, modern Vietnamese with some hits and misses

The latest entry in the modern Vietnamese scene, Dzo Viet Eatery opened in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s in the same category as other trendy Vietnamese restaurants like Pinky’s Ca Phe and Vit Beo, but is more ambitious in its dining space and menu.

Dzo has a well-ventilated space. I visited during the warmer months when it was opened for indoor dining. It was the first week of their grand opening, so take this review with a grain of salt.

Patio at Dzo — Patio and dining space at Dzo

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Super Bakers

Super flaky and wholesome empanadas

Every former Spanish colony has their version of empanada, which consists of some flat dough folded over some filling. Filipino empanadas are pedestrian. They are easy to find all over the Philippines but it is difficult to find a memorable one.

Super Bakers stands out for its unique dough. Empanadas are traditionally made with a pie dough. The ingenious twist from Super Bakers is to use hopia dough. This results in a short and flaky crust. It’s best enjoyed fresh from their bakery, even though they supply to other businesses in the city.

Chinese-Filipino heritage of hopia

Hopia (好饼, literally good biscuit) has its origins in Fujian province in southern China. It was brought over to the Philippines by Fujianese migrants over a century ago. This sort of pastry is common in Southern China but isn’t called hopia. In fact, it doesn’t have a standard name. The name “hopia” probably derives from a category of confections, hipia (喜饼, literally wedding biscuit), of which hopia is one of them.

Whether in China or Philippines or Southeast Asia, the form is instantly recognizable: a palm-sized disc with sweet fillings inside. The dough is pale brown and flakey like French puff pastry, but without butter. It also crumbles more easily.

The difference with the Filipino adaption is in the filling. While mung beans are still the most popular filling in China and Philippines, a uniquely Filipino filling is ube (purple yam). Baboy (pork) is also common in the Philippines, but not so much in China.

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Banh Mi Boys

Stalwart for Canadian bánh mì sandwiches

Banh Mi Boys burst into the Toronto food scene in December 2011 and quickly became a food sensation. They had the elusive formula of creativity, price, and taste. Firstly, they were a step up from traditional bánh mì sold a few blocks away in Chinatown. No more mystery meats and cuts. Banh Mi Boys put in recognizable chunks of proteins and jazzed it up with breaded squid rings and duck confit. Secondly, although they were more than twice the price of Chinatown bánh mì, it was still a basement bargain starting at $5.64 (2012 price including tax). Most importantly, as with any restaurant, taste is king. It was sinfully good and a harbinger of how the culinary scene in Toronto was taking off.

Fast forward to 2020 and Banh Mi Boys have opened several outlets across the city. As with any long-running establishment, there are the usual complaints of dropping standards and higher prices. There is some truth to that. But it is still a lifesaver for students on a budget and people looking for fast food that is not burger and fries.

Anatomy of a bánh mì

Quick crash course on bánh mì. Like how to pronounce the weird squiggly lines. It’s ok to say it in a neutral tone: “ban mi”. If you want to attempt Vietnamese tones, bánh has the same rising tone as someone exclaiming “huh?”. Mì has the same falling tone as someone dismissively saying “meh”.

Bánh mì is just a medium-length baguette sandwich. The crusty bread is sliced lengthwise and stuffed with mystery meats and đồ chua (pickles, almost always julienned carrots and daikon). Vietnamese love deli meats like chả lụa (pale pork sausage) and pâté (liver paste). These make an appearance in the house specials (bánh mì đặc biệt) of most stalls. Another popular variation uses grilled meats, like lemongrass pork in bánh mì thịt nướng.

The sandwich is finished in typical Vietnamese fashion with lots of fresh herbs and cucumbers. Well, at least for the ones in Saigon. Bánh mì originated from Southern Vietnam and is in top form there. Street vendors might slather on chilli sauce and drops of Maggi seasoning. Delish.

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