Yes, you read that right. This is one of the few places in Toronto that has tongue on its regular menu. Beef offal is difficult to prepare correctly and can easily end up tough and rubbery. Also, parts like tongue and heart have a strong beef taste that can be a turn off. I, for one, am thrilled that FAMO is gutsy enough to offer it and make it palatable to the masses.
I’ve been babbling about tongue so far but that’s not really FAMO’s key strength. Their mission is to craft creative sandwiches. Their fillings are certainly not run-of-the-mill ones like BLT or cold cuts. Unconventional as they are, the combinations work.
Top-notch, approachable Modern Canadian food (COVID-19 takeout edition)
Just a block south of Queen subway station is Richmond Station. Except it’s a restaurant, not a subway station. The choice of name is deliberate. Its logo even features a subway train. Think of Richmond Station as a stop on the metaphorical culinary train.
Richmond Station
It’s difficult to put a finger on the cuisine served here. It ranges from pasta to braised meat to ethnic inspirations like mulligatawny (British-Indian curry soup). They are dishes that you might have seen in other restaurants but with Canadian twists. The menu changes seasonally. So, I would say Richmond Station is the exemplar for Modern Canadian cuisine.
This restaurant closed on 21 June 2022. Thanks for the memories!
Bringing out the best in Brazilian cooking
Sabor Brasil is one of the rare full-service Brazilian restaurants in Toronto that has a decent ambience and terrific food. In fact, it does humble classics much better than most places I’ve been to in Brazil.
Sabor Brasil
Most people outside of lusophone countries don’t know much about Brazilian food other than steak houses (churrascarias). Toronto does have examples of those but churrascarias are meant for a splurge meal. To get an idea of everyday Brazilian food, come to Sabor Brasil.
Let’s get the bad news out of the way. The English name for this bakery is awkward and cringeworthy. The original French name is better: “Aux Merveilleux de Fred”. Although “Marvelous by Fred” is a technically correct translation, it doesn’t invoke the same personal touch.
Marvelous by Fred is a chain bakery originating from Lille, Northern France. Their signature dessert is the namesake merveilleux (pronounced mair-veh-year; marvelous in English). It’s a unique creation of their own consisting of a meringue shell with bits of goodies inside it.
Competent crowd pleasers with a contemporary Israeli flair
I’ve passed by Cafe Landwer over a hundred times but have never tried it until last year. Before COVID-19, it was rather popular but cafe fare like salads, sandwiches, and hummus didn’t seem that interesting to me. The pandemic provided the opportunity for me to give it a shot during one of my downtown strolls. And it exceeded my expectations. 10% off online orders helped too.
Cafe Landwer
Cafe Landwer is an chain cafe from Israel. The downtown branch is the second in Canada, opened a year after the first one in Vaughan. Its international presence is tiny compared to its home base at Israel. Cafe Landwer only started expanding overseas in 2017 starting with Canada then USA. If its popularity is any indication, they are set to grow rapidly.
Makan stands out as the only Malaysian restaurant in downtown Toronto. Ok, it’s Malaysian-inspired rather than actual Malaysian. The only recognizably traditional dishes are their nasi lemak (coconut rice), rendang (dry coconut curry), and chicken curry. Still, it is a welcome change from the usual chain restaurant and food court fare. The food is above average and well-priced to boot.
Makan. Fugo, a dessert store, is also co-located there.
The food
The menu can be summarized as (1) stuff on baos or rice and (2) tater tots. Tater tots are an oddball for the restaurant’s concept. I didn’t try them for this review. I would have preferred Malaysian sides like begedil (croquettes), curry puffs (curry pastries), or rojak (savoury fruit salad).
Fika means coffee break in Swedish, or for some, a social ritual. That’s what FIKA Cafe in Toronto offers. Some coffee and sugary treats and a lazy afternoon lounge surrounded by Scandinavian designs. Well, at least that’s what it was before the COVID-19 pandemic. Today, FIKA does a brisk business with takeout coffee and pastries.
FIKA Cafe
FIKA has less than four traditional Swedish foods but it does them well. For a proper Swedish restaurant, IKEA is the only option, unfortunately. FIKA sells Scandinavian-inspired sandwiches like ones with smoked salmon. However, their strength is with coffee and sweet pastries, the very essence of fika.
Patio of FIKA. Losers have vandalized the handwritten welcome message on the railing.
The food
Their pastries sell out as fast as they did before the pandemic. Get there before noon for the full selection.
Pastry display case. Clockwise from top left: cinnamon rolls, ginger snaps, pecan brownies, spiced oatmeal currant cookies, spiced carrot cupcakes with lemon icing, semlor.
Feasting on Northern, Central, and Southern Vietnamese food across Toronto
Toronto has the largest Vietnamese population in Canada. Outside Vietnam, it is also one of the cities with the largest number of people of Vietnamese descent. Waves of immigrants came in with the onset of the Vietnam War. And with them came a blossoming of the Vietnamese food scene in Toronto.
Phở (rice noodles with beef) has become synonymous with Vietnamese food in Toronto. Naturally, there is far more to Vietnamese cuisine and it’s a shame that many Toronto diners don’t venture beyond the familiar dishes. The major regional cuisines of Vietnam are divided into North, Central, and South, each differing slightly in terms of ingredients and spices. So, to inspire your next meal, here are some of the best restaurants to check out for each regional cuisine. Please don’t come to these places for just phở.
Northern Vietnamese: Phở Sơn
Northern Vietnamese food shares similarities with Southern Chinese food. Flavours tend towards sweet, salty, and mild. Phở originated here and the broth is simple and clear, letting ingredients speak for themselves. There aren’t many Northern Vietnamese restaurants in Toronto. Phở Sơn stands out for being consistently good in every dish.
Exterior of Pho Son
No tour of Northern Vietnamese cuisine is complete without bún chả Hà Nội. This is a specialty of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam. It consists of rice vermicelli (bún) with a bowl of sweet-sour fish sauce (nước mắm) to dip into. Grilled pork pieces (chả) are served on the side.
Phở Sơn has the best bún chả in Toronto. It was a refreshing change from other Vietnamese restaurants to find vegetables treated with such care. Every leaf in the herb garnish was free of blemishes. Carrots and daikons were cut into flowers. It might be old-fashioned but I appreciate a restaurant that showcases its knife skills.
Bún chả Hà Nội from Phở Sơn. Quality bouquet of herbs on top. Bag of nước mắm and pickles at the back.
Expert technique was evident on the grilled pork as well. The fish sauce and soy sauce marinade seeped throughout the meat. The exterior was lightly charred and not burnt. Pork was succulent. Did I mention the accompanying vegetables were carefully carved?
The nước mắm was a refreshing counterpoint. An intense combination of sour, sweet, pungent, and spicy. It was one of the best traditional Vietnamese dishes I’ve had. 8.5/10.
Grilled pork and boiled vegetables for bún chả Hà Nội
On weekends, Phở Sơn cooks up offal and sausages. They are famous for their cháo lòng dồi (pork offal congee). I don’t see this offered at most Vietnamese restaurants, probably because Toronto diners are squeamish about eating intestines and stomachs.
Cháo lòng dồi from Phở Sơn
The congee had a style distinct from Chinese ones. It was more peppery, smokey, and oily. It was also deliciously savoury. There was an assortment of offal like large intestine, liver, and stomach. They were succulent and not overcooked. 8/10.
Yonge-Dundas Square is a mixed bag when it comes to food choices. There are a few great restaurants but there are many more mediocre chains that survive on tourist and shopping traffic. Well, if you are in the area around lunch time, it’s worth seeking out Elm Street Italian Deli for their subs.
Elm Street Italian Deli
They sell Canadian-Italian subs, or at least that’s what I call them. They are not traditional Italian panini because they come loaded with more meats and ingredients. Also, the ingredient combinations are not something one finds in Italy. It’s closer to American/Canadian-Italian sandwiches. Regardless of origin, I recommend them for a quick, quality bite.
It’s been just over a year since COVID-19 exploded in Toronto. For future historians, here’s a retrospective of how the restaurant scene changed over the last 12 months.
Order fulfillment changes
Of all the changes, those regarding order fulfillment are the most likely to stick around after the pandemic. Order fulfillment is everything between making an order and receiving food.
More contactless payment and ordering
Cashless restaurants existed even before the pandemic, with places like iQ FOOD accepting only card payments and online orders. The pandemic drove more places like Baguette & Co and PG Clucks to go cashless.
2020 saw the introduction of two automated cubby restaurants. Diners order and pay at a touchscreen kiosk. They pick up their order from one of the cubbies (compartments) at the back of the restaurant. No human interaction necessary. Regardless, both restaurants have one human staff to help confused customers. The concept has been around in other countries for years, but these are the first in Canada.
Finished orders are placed in open cubicles at Cubby Smart Kitchen
Touchscreen cubicles at Box’d
Human-free ordering, payment, and pickup at Box’d
Automated restaurants make their appearance in Toronto
Increased online presence
One positive outcome of the pandemic is how it has pushed businesses to digitize. When I did a refresh of my restaurant list at the end of 2020, nearly all the restaurants that did not have a website in 2019 had one now. Or at least a Facebook page.
Even old school restaurants like Wei’s Taiwanese Food created a shockingly modern website. Customers can pick up orders at designated spots around the GTA, an innovation I haven’t seen elsewhere. It makes the best of a small delivery team.
Online store of Wei’s Taiwanese Foods
More convenient ways to order
During the early months of the pandemic, there was a scramble to get on delivery apps. Foodora exited the Canadian market in May 2020, leaving behind Uber Eats, SkipTheDishes, and DoorDash as the only big food apps in Toronto. Deterred by high commission fees of up to 30%, some turned to smaller alternatives like Ambassador AI, Ritual, Tock, and TouchBistro. Tock is especially favoured by high-end establishments. Not all these platforms offer delivery though.
A few resourceful restaurants set up their own e-commerce stores using Shopify, Square, or their own bespoke site. Mandarin and Cafe Landwer rolled out their own digital ordering services, complete with phone authentication and online discounts.
These apps make it easy to order, pay, check availability, schedule orders, discover new restaurants, and reduce miscommunication when ordering. I hope that restaurants continue to invest in them after the pandemic.
Pre-ordering enters mainstream
With online ordering, it’s a breeze to plan a restaurant pickup after an outdoor stroll. No time wasted on waiting.
Another use of pre-orders are for special meals. You know, those that have to be ordered a few days in advance. High-end restaurants like Alo and Edulis switched to this format for their multi-course meal kits. Restaurateurs benefit from forecasting demand so they don’t end up with wasted produce.
Product changes
When the pandemic struck, many restaurants were suddenly in trouble because their business model could not be sustained by takeout. Fine-dining restaurants, buffet restaurants, bars, and any restaurant that sold quickly-perishable food (e.g. tartare, sundaes, soufflés) were hit hard. They had to turn to the buzzword of the startup world: pivot.
